Arriving at Taiohae Bay, Nuka Hiva

Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Wed 14 Apr 2010 02:25
 
8:54.991S 140:05.914W
 
Wednesday 14th April
 
We're here!
 
At 08.30 on Sunday morning Paul woke Amy and myself up with lots of shouting as there were dolphins by the side of the boat. At first we weren't impressed at being woken up but these were no ordinary dolphins, they were huge, probably around 3 metres long! They were incredible, we were so mesmerised that we didn't even notice that we were a few miles away from land and what a sight it was (when we spotted it). The island of Ua Huka was our first glimpse but we were headed for Nuka Hiva which is around 30 miles further. Amy sat at the bow and watched the dolphins swimming right under her feet for over an hour and then we all showered and made ourselves presentable as it had been a while since we had to make an effort!
 
  
 
  
 
Just as we reached the end of Ua Huka we quickly came upon a sail boat that we'd guesstimate to be 23 ft long. The boat made radio contact and Paul had a little chat to the gentleman on board. His boat is called "Emma Gail" and we believe he is single-handed. It was his 35th day at sea as he'd come straight from Panama. We all gasped when he said the amount of days he'd been at sea for, we'd been moaning at 17! We've said we'll swing by and see him or vice versa, I'm sure he has a few stories to tell!
 
We're now anchored in the very spacious Taiohae Bay on Nuka Hiva and it's lovely. The islands are very impressive to look at from the sea with their huge mountains and steep cliffs shooting straight our from the ocean. It is actually quite a dramatic coastline as the cliffs, needles and peaks can reach up to 1000m high, the result of waves smashing against the rock as there are no reefs or lagoons to stop them.
 
  
 
  
 
Taiohae is the main centre and it hugs the bay for nearly 3.5km but behind the waterfront are lush green mountains ridged with deep valleys draped in luxurious vegetation. Although this is classed as the town centre there is 1 supermarket, 1 bank, 1 bakery and 3 restaurants! The guide book says that Taiohae has an enticing atmosphere that's part colonial port, part stone-age art hub and it couldn't be more true. The people are incredibly friendly and happy but some do look quite menacing. They're very big and broad and most are covered in tattoos as in French Polynesia tattoos are symbols of your identity. They show community or clan membership, social status and they are also an initiation right when children become young men and women. The Marquesas' warriors used to tattoo their faces to make themselves look terrifying to enemies but we haven't seen anyone who is tattooed as much as that.
 
First impressions are that the Marquesans are very friendly, smily people and our first port of call Nuka Hiva is beautiful!