Camp Leakey - 1st Feeding

Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Fri 12 Nov 2010 10:11
 
Friday 12th November
 
We arrived at the jetty for the 3rd station called 'Camp Leakey' around 12:30 and set off to the camp and feeding session around 13:00. Just enough time for us to apply sun cream, mosquito repellent and decide on the right attire and footwear.
 
Canadian researcher Dr Birute Galdikas began her research here in 1971. She arrived with her former husband Mr Rod Brindamour in two dugout canoes carrying with them their possessions and provisions. This was the beginning of the Orangutan Research and Conservation Project based at what was to become Camp Leakey. The least known of the female ape experts mentored by the legendary anthropologist Dr Louis Leakey, Dr Galdikas' discoveries included the orangutan's eight year birth cycle, which makes it highly vulnerable to extinction. The project continues to this day and is one of the longest continuous mammalian studies in the world.
 
The 415,000 hectare park was Indonesia's first site for the now controversial practice of orangutan rehabilitation: training orphaned or former captive orangutans to live in the wild. But after prolonged close contact with human rehabilitators, orangutans never lose their taste for it. Orangutans can also pick up human diseases and spread them to wild populations. Current regulations require reintroduction in areas without native orangutan populations. Tanjung Puting's rehabilitation work is being phased out.
 
Part of the rehabilitation process that survives is daily feedings to released orangutans at jungle platforms and this is where we were headed for 2pm.
 
  
 
 
We set off on the 20 minute walk along a timber pontoon into the rainforest away from the river. We were minding our own business and anticipating what was coming up when suddenly Thomas came bounding through the trees. Before we knew it he was sat on the pontoon with us eating an orange. The way he ate it was incredible, he'd pierce the centre with his nail and peel the skin back, selecting one segment at a time. Already the intelligence of these animals was clear. There is only 3 percent that separates human DNA from orangutan, which actually means 'person of the forest' in Malay. Some stay close to the camp and have even learnt to open doors with keys, row canoes, bail out an when necessary, wash clothes as well as other sorts of human behaviour. When you look into their brown eyes you know that they are trying to read your mind as much as you are theirs. They want to learn as much from us as we do them.
 
  
 
  
 
Thomas was a cheeky chappy and pinched my bottle of water. He instantly clambered down the tree to cool the warm water in the chilly swamp water below - clever ay! He then held on to the lid with his teeth as he twisted the bottle back and forth with his hand until alas it was open and the water ran free. Mysteriously he'd then pour the water in his mouth and spit it out. Who knows what that was about, but nonetheless he knew what to do, no doubt through years of observing humans, like a baby learns from the actions of those around them.
 
  
 
  
 
We tore ourselves away from Thomas and made our way into the camp on a high, our first encounter with an orangutan had been as perfect as it could have been. It was only the beginning! A cheeky gibbon jumped from tree to tree and would make you go dizzy if you watched it. Even he was fascinating to study up close. His legs and arms looked so sturdy, no doubt because they are made up of solid muscle.
 
 
  
 
As we turned the corner we came across 3 more orangutans, Atlas the baby, Unyo and Ahmat. Ahmat who is 43 years old was the first orphaned orangutan at Camp Leakey and Atlas is her baby. The young ones all seem to have a mischievous look in their eyes, as if they are weighing you up and deciding how close they should get or allow you to get. Whereas the older ones appear used to humans, certainly the ones we met around the camp anyway, the ones at the feeding table were a different story. But here in the comfort of their home they seem relaxed and completely at ease and allow us to kneel down and study them. We watched in amazement as Ahmat ate a bunch of bananas. Each banana is removed from the bunch separately and popped into the mouth. The skin is discarded of, not before it is stripped of any banana that may be left on the inside.
 
  
 
Atlas and Ahmat
 
 
Resident wild boar
 
Next stop, the information centre where we were joined by a female and her few month old baby. They sat on the steps alongside Paul and Jack and shared an orange. It all seemed so natural! She then reminded us who was boss when she ventured inside the centre and chased away anyone who attempted to get her out. As gentle and relaxed as these animals may seem you have to remember that in an instant they could grab you and hurt you, they are much stronger than we are!
 
  
 
Eventually we made another 20 minute walk further into the jungle to the feeding platform where we could hear the rangers calling the orangutans. So as not to place any stress on the wild orangutan population in the park, these supplemental feedings are available daily for ex-captive rehabilitants. The number of orangutans availing themselves of this afternoon snack varies greatly. Sometimes no one comes, other days 1 or 2 and then there are days when there are more. Of course, the days when no one comes is a good sign for the orangutans - it means they are well and happy, living on the fruits of the forest.
 
Today we were lucky! Although it seems almost wrong to say that, as you want there to be orangutans there but then at the same time you don't, as you want them to be surviving out in the jungle by themselves. Perhaps they've become lazy or greedy and come back here as they know there'll be food. The good thing is that these ones who are just that little bit further away from the camp are definitely not as friendly. Don't get me wrong, I didn't ever feel in any danger but they certainly weren't as welcoming or friendly. I don't think we'd find one of these bounding through the trees to join us on the pontoon and hold our hand.
 
  
 
Mother and baby
 
Very often the orangutans would climb down from the trees, grab some bananas and venture back up into the tree tops. They are nature's largest arboreal animal and rarely come to the ground, building up to a half-dozen nests daily for sleeping. The nests consist of a bunch of leaves and twigs bunched together - how it supports their weight is a mystery! They are crucial to the rainforest as seed dispersers, and the forest is crucial to them. They forage over large ranges, eating more than 200 varieties of fruit, bark and leaves, plus occasional insects and meat.
 
  
 
Ironwood is as strong as steel - that is how that small branch is supporting him!
 
Just as we'd returned back to the boat Seeswee came sauntering down the pontoon - a fully grown adult female, complete with the huge jowl. Once again we witnessed an orangutan eat an orange, she had the same method, except she was fussy about the pips. After each segment had been placed in her mouth a pip would come flying out, still whole.
 
  
 
  
 
  
 
We were slightly nervous as we retreated to the boat to eat our banana fritters cooked by Topik. As she ventured towards the edge of the pontoon we thought she could smell them and was coming for a treat. Instead she made her way down the steps and dangled her feet in the water to cool her down, followed by a drink of water from Joe.
 
  
 
We left the pontoon to tie up to the trees on the other side of the river, just a few metres away from the orangutans and even closer to the proboscis monkeys in the trees above. It was time to reflect on the days events and settle into the evening aboard our temporary home. The painted ironwood boat is around 15 metres long and 2 metres wide with a roof that formed the upper deck, where we lived and slept for the 3 days and 2 nights. The crew lived and worked and slept inside the boat.
 
The toilet and showering arrangements are what had caused the most concern, as again we'd seen pictures of other boats with uncovered shared toilet and showers. Ours however, was first class! The toilet and shower were in separate large compartments and considering that we were on board a klotok I'd say there were pretty good. A delicious dinner was served just before darkness fell and then we watched a dvd about when Julia Roberts visited the same camp in 1994. From then on everything was conducted under candle light. We deemed this to be a good thing as the candle light hid the bugs that had found they way into the boat - out of sight, out of mind!
 
The crew assembled our beds, starting with a 6 inch think mattress, sheets, pillows and then mosquito nets suspended across the ceiling. Such simplicity!
 
  
 
Topik and I Ben assembling the beds.........Not long before Amy and Jack were in!
 
 
The shower to the left and toilet to the right