The Tuamotus Archipelago

Jackamy
Paul & Derry Harper
Sat 24 Apr 2010 05:57
 
Strung like white sand jewels across the Pacific, the Tuamotus are a world apart. The 77 atolls, scattered like confetti on an ocean of ink, stretch 1500km northwest to southeast and 500km east to west. The closest islands are about 300km from Tahiti. Each coral atoll barely rises more than 6 feet above sea level and may be difficult to see from more than a mile or so offshore.
 
The Tuamotus have always been a dangerous place for navigators and teh long remained in the shadow of the Society Islands. That has changed thanks to pearl cultivation, which has become a central pillar of the Polynesian economy. The growth of pearl cultivation has reversed the outward migration of the population, which has grown from 11,793 to 15,846 people since 1983. There are 45 inhabited islands, ranging from those with a mere handful of occupants to Rangiroa, with a total population of 3016.
 
General advice is to navigate only between the 10.00 hours and 16.00 hours when the sun is high and isolated coral heads may be easily seen, especially if approaching with the sun behind and someone keeping a good lookout from the cross trees or bows. Amy has been nominated to go up the mast and I will be at the bow but can either of us be trusted! The atolls may be considered similar to a saucer with the rim being the emerging reefs, or 'motus' as the are called in Polynesian. The necklace of coral making up this 'rim' is in places separated by deep 'passes' through which the tide rushes back and forth and through which the peace and calm of the inner lagoon may be reached.
 
We have been recommended 3 options for cruising the Tuatmotus to Tahiti, the first representing a relatively direct voyage with few stops, the second takes you through the eastern islands and you've guessed it, the third takes you through the western islands. We have chosen the western route as Blue Magic are picking some friends up from Rangiroa. So our first call will be Manihi, known for its pearls, although Mark and Paul have informed Chrissy and myself that they don't have any left to sell, especially big ones. They can't fool us! Then it is on to the biggest atoll, Rangiroa where we'll probably do some diving. We'll probably then make another stopover at Tikehau which despite its proximity to Tahiti, remains unspoilt and welcoming.