38:04.303N 012:49.373E

SV Eleonora
Michael A. Andronov
Sun 6 Oct 2019 21:39
UTC 1000
Scopello  anchorage.

We have arrived there late in the evening on our run to Trapani…. 

But let me step back a bit… 

Staying in Arenella has been beautiful.  The weather — though as they call it here ’the end of the season’ — provided plenty of Sun,  warm days, and mild nights.  The holding in the sand — was reliable. There was easy access to Palermo…  The winds, more on the stronger side, were keep blowing from the West… But the high mountain was protecting us totally, both from wind and from swell…  The only reminders about them — were the angles and the movements of the passing by boats on horizon…  

Arenella itself — a small Italian suburb of bigger city.  I think — there is nothing spectacular  for the tourists in Arenella… But… If you would like to observe the typical Italian / Sicilian everyday life — that is the place! 

The ’transient boat’ — would find there a comfortable anchorage,  friendly people, good prices for supplies and plenty of food, vegetables, fish… 

It is about 20 minutes bus drive — including 1 transfer — and you are in the Palermo Centre. Open any tourist guide book — and you would see plenty suggestions what one should do in Palermo.  ( And also, what should not do… ;-)).  I had no time to do all that. 
Instead,  I went to the market, and then — walked around the city centre.  

Ballarò market — is one of the oldest…  At least, it was mentioned so in 10th century…
It opens the door to understand the Sicilian tradition and history. Probably, the best place for that in the whole Palermo. 

I can go on and on describing it. But what is the point ?  Take a quick  google search,  and… here we go:
Most importantly — I have been there!  And I can second — it is an interesting place, to see the mix of cultures from all over the world… 

Back to Arenella.  Checking the weather delivered the news that the peaceful weather in our harbour going to change… The small system would pass just on top of us,  changing the wind from the West to the East,  and not only to intensify it… but should bring the swell of about 2 meters… From the only one direction , which we are not protected from…  That should be on early Tuesday…  So, we have an early warning… Kind of… But… there are always details… 
Till late Monday — as the system forming — the Westerly winds would intensify… so the waves, and they would blow exactly from the direction where the route to Trapani is — the port and anchorage on the Western part of the Sicily. The port, which should give us the discount protection.

It means that no more travel to Palermo, but instead — raising the anchor and sail! 

About 10 UTC on Sunday morning, we raised the anchor and go!   It should not be a big distance all together… But some lessons about travelling in those waters have been already learned… I decided to split the trip in 2 parts — go as close to Capo Vito on day one, hide from increasing westerlies, and then, on the next day — go around Capo Vito, and under the West wind on a beam — reach Trapani!  

As soon as we passed the protection of the land, and decided to turn West… I got a quick reminder what  ‘beating’ means in the Med…. 
The positive moment was — the part of the plan to spilt the trip in 2  — seemed to  be a good idea…  The weather — was also nice… Sunny mostly, and though the first clouds of the coming weather system started to appear — the weather should be recorded as nice! 
But that is all about the good parts…  On the other hand, the sea was full of the 1.5+ waves,  not too short, but at the same time, not long enough to make the progress against them smooth and pleasant…  And the wind — it appeared  at about 15 knots,  gusting to 20, not more… and disappearing suddenly, nearly completely… leaving you bouncing between the waves on your nose… 

But there was no other choice… We had to go… We managed… it has been a very loooong day, but  late in the evening, we managed to get to Scopello,  and after a couple attempts, to set the anchor….  

The anchorage is definitely the reward for the long day…. Unfortunately,  it was too late and too dark to make the photos… ( it was nearly close to 2200 local ). 
But the anchorage is surrounded by the rocks… and those rocks — were lighted from the shore, to make some scenery for the either hotel, or tourist complex on the  shore… Actually, the whole anchorage was highlighted…  That, together with the fact  we were alone on the whole anchorage, — make setting the anchor a bit easier…  

If the rocks, being highlighted, look beautiful from the shore… The whole setting on the shore — the set of ancient buildings, converted to tourist kind of place — look beautiful from the boat!    I have definitely do some photos, before leaving… 

I wish I could stay here… But the same angle, and the same forecast — on Tuesday, it would be a messy waves here… with a strong wind. And if on the quite night with constant watch, with the light  wind pushing you from the shore — not strong settled anchor is kind of ‘acceptable’…  On the weather forecasted for Tuesday — no way to survive… 

The loud life music started from the shore… My way to deal with it — consider that it is played in honour of SV Eleonora and my arrival!  What other reason may be ?! I know that they were still playing before midnight… But on the next boat check shortly after — they stopped… 


Everything is fine. We a bit tired, but hopefully, I would have some rest during the night, and tomorrow we should have to go around Capo Vito, and be on the Western coast of Sicily,  travel about 15nm, and enter the Trapani harbour…  Sounds easy, we will see… 

All for now… 

Talk to you soon, 
M.
 
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