Mindelo in Sao Vincente has the decaying grandeur of an ex colonial city - hard to picture in

its heyday (mid 1800s) when its natural harbour made it the fourth most important in the world

(after Port Said, Malta and Singapore) in terms of ship tonnage handled at its huge coaling station.

However, it does now boast a yacht marina - a safe place for us to leave Freewheel in order to

explore the wonders of Santo Antao, only 8km across the water by regular ferry.

 

Santo Antao itself, as you arrive in Porto Novo, presents itself as another barren arid island -

but once we crossed the 1000m+ ridge (in our rugged hired 4x4) we were in another world.

Incredible Ribeiras (ravines) dissect the mountains and lead down to the northern coast between

craggy peaks and ridges. Tiny terraced fields are hewn out of the steepest slopes and are

highly productive as they make good use of the rain/clouds that often cover the higher slopes.

Ancient cobbled paths connect the isolated farms and minute fields, winding round the rocks

and zigzagging up near vertical cliffs. They provide excellent walks for the developing tourist

trade whether they be groups of masochistic hikers (mostly German) or just unfit amateurs like us.

 

We spent two great days exploring - we drove along the rough water tracks in the base of the

varied ravines, scaled two peaks and descended to the fertile floor of a volcanic crater. Locals

often hailed us for a lift and either jumped into the open pickup back or climbed into the backseat

to keep us entertained with voluble Creole. A bit like the Brits, they assume repeating loudly

and often will eventually bring understanding - luckily our French went a long way to help.

 

On our return journey the clouds had descended so we drove much of the vertiginous road (on

several cols the road dropped vertically 500m+ on EACH side) in mist, finally breaking through

to sunshine and the fascinating view of a 'sea of cloud' pierced by rocky peaks.

 

We were a little concerned to arrive back in Porto Novo to a deserted port since, although we

had tickets we knew they were for an "extra" ferry put on for New Year's Eve with no ferries

due to run for the next 2 days. However within half an hour the crowds and bustle returned

- aluguers bursting with people and luggage filled the harbour and we had a fascinating journey

back amid a festive throng.

 

Looking back from Santo Antao to Sao Vincente  Hill top village perched on knife edged ridge