This may well be the last in this series of the blog! Osprey arrived at Smir
at 2130 and we negotiated the entry and sand banks in the dark without
incident apart from upsetting some irate fishermen whose lines we
threatened. By 2200 we were all fast alongside the harbour masters wharf.
His name is Miguel and a great guy having given us some detailed guidance on
how to get in after dark when we called him passing Gibraltar. We approached
the berth in reasonable shape and Charles was able to step ashore with the
back spring. The local police were on our tails immediately (We had been
warned by Miguel) but there was no real hassle. We filled in the forms,
lodged our passport, acknowledged we had no illegal substances either in our
bodies or on board the boat and were sent back to the boat to wait the
doctor. He turned up within half an hour and took our temperatures with an
infrared temperature gun, then declared us healthy and fit to enter Morocco.
No doubt his account will follow in due course. We sat down to a very late
dinner of Pizza and were in bed shortly after midnight. Today we met with
Miguel this morning and made the arrangement for the boats stay here through
September. He gave us a great discount and an equally superb berth in the
secure area of the marina. We are alongside as opposed to being stern
moored and have all the necessary facilities. Osprey plugged straight into
the local power supply and we set too washing down, cleaning sails, and
getting the boat cleaned up ready for the next voyage. Smir is a beautiful
little place, very picturesque and the people we have met so far have been
great. The rates are reasonable and Miguel has given us a 25% discount off
most things and 50% off some - there are some advantages in being an ex
mariner when talking to another! The place is not crowded, very well
sheltered and almost idyllic in its peace and quiet. Its a bit of hike
from our berth to the office which is only a 100 metres across the water but
we have to walk all around the periphery of the marina. Some of the houses
here are lovely with bougainvillea climbing on their walls. We have had an
excellent day and broken the back of the cleanup. Tomorrow Charles is
heading off on a tour and we shall eat ashore when he returns. On Thursday
he heads off to Tangiers to spend the day before flying out to the UK on
Friday. John will finish off closing up the boat and is hoping to fly home
on Saturday via Ceuta - a ferry to Gibraltar and a flight from there. There
are high speed catamarans operating the ferry service so it is on half an
hour from Ceuta to Gibraltar. If there are any disadvantageous to Smir that
we have found so far it is simply its relatively remote location - which
probably explains the peace and quiet! We are about 60 miles from Tangiers
and perhaps half that to Ceuta. Taxi's are the main means to and from and
cost about 60 Euros to Tangiers and 40 to Ceuta. We have now covered 11,200
miles since we started to cruise Osprey in Maine, survived two hurricanes
and Florida's yacht services, both of which are experiences never to be
repeated. On this current passage from Falmouth we have covered 3,580
nautical miles and most importantly Charles has survived and John will not
have to make excuses to his mum for not returning the borrowed goods.
Tariq - one of the managers at the marina - gave him the title of Johns'
honorary son this morning and that has stuck. John has concluded that given
time we will probably get on reasonably well. The last 7 weeks confined in a
space 52 by 15ft has proved an excellent trial period. In the past two days
and after 7 weeks Charles finally conquered the bowline knot and the correct
method of coiling a rope - this is not to denigrate his many other skills
which will become apparent in due course!. During the passage the record
period of two days passed without any incident that left Charles with either
a bruise or a bandage - we have come to understand that this is a form of
normality which he has learned to live with - as perhaps have his parents?
Apart from that he is well on the way to becoming one of those rare breed -
the Master Mariner and his culinary skills are only surpassed by those of
Kuki - and there seems to be some dispute between the two of them in this
respect! All in all a great passage which is one of the longest non
prevailing wind passages in the world and a great achievement for all those
who participated including our wonderful support team in Portland, Maine -
to whom we owe a huge vote of thanks - and of course our WAGS who sufferred
from our absence!.
