N13:14:42 W061:16:32 Keartons, St Vincent
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Wind Charger
Bob and Elizabeth Frearson
Thu 22 Jan 2015 02:32
Every time we have visited Bequia, I have thought that it would be nice to
dine at L’Auberge de Grenadines, a much talked about establishment even in
Martinique. Bob was reluctant because he remembered their advertised
dinghy dock as being a concrete death trap. After some “negotiations” Bob
decided that he was happy to go to the town dock (known and loved and safe) and
walk the half mile round the bay to the restaurant. It really really
wasn’t that far. We arrived somewhat sweaty, turned into the restaurant
and admired the dinghy dock which wasn’t the one that Bob had remembered at
all. Ah well, we had worked up an appetite. It is a delightful
restaurant run by a French chap and his local wife with great views across the
harbour. They have combined their cooking cultures and ways of serving to
create a charming atmosphere with the sweetest waitresses who have been trained
to pick up and fold your napkin ready for your return when you pop up from the
table. They specialise in lobsters, you meet them on the way in. We
started with a mojito while we chose from the menu, perhaps a bit of mistake on
top of a large gin but you only live once. I had lobster cakes to start,
deliciously juicy and gently spiced and Bob had the callaloo soup which again
looked like sludge but tasted good. Bob went on to have a tasty looking
lobster salad (I wasn’t able to get a taste of it) but I had my own little ones
on my “surf and turf” curry. Very tasty accompanied by a bottle of white
wine. For pudding we shared a chocolate deliciousness which we made even
more delicious by insisting on a blob of coconut ice cream with it. There
was a clash of spoons and it disappeared in a trice. The walk back seemed
much shorter and a now very jolly party went to clamber aboard the dinghy.
Bob led the way, as he always does. He then proceeded to stand astride the
seat, wave his arms around and then plunge head first into the sea. I
couldn’t stop laughing (cackling apparently) as he rose above the waves, it was
only four feet deep fortunately, his glasses still firmly on his face. He
clambered into the dinghy, shouted at me to get a move on and he was “only
trying to manoeuvre the dinghy for me to get in anyway”. Rocking
helplessly with laughter I scrambled in, Bob smartly got the engine going and
roared back to Windy. I smothered my face in the towel and tried to stop
my shoulders shaking. On arrival at Windy, I alighted still stifling my
giggles, where Bob stripped down to his glasses. We then emptied the very
important blue bag of all the very important documents within, including boat
papers, passports, cruising guide, cash of many denominations and Bob’s phone
and spread them around the saloon to dry. The phone went into a bowl of
rice. Bob then retired to his bunk, not a very happy chappy. This
morning Bob could just about talk about his midnight swim. I could just
about not burst out laughing.
We headed off in good time, after removing all the clothes rinsed and
drying along the boom, to St Vincent. To keep spirits up (mind you that
might have been half the problem) we hoiked up the sails and whooshed along
under 16 knot winds, across a calm sea, a nice steady run, bathed in glorious
sunshine. Who could not have their heart warmed by such a beautiful sail
(particularly if you have been ignominiously dumped in the sea the night
before)?
We mooched into Keartons, in great trepidation as Beany tied us up to buoys
fore and aft over a rocky shelf marked on the chart as a bottom scraper but
actually 8 metres deep. It is a beautiful spot and we can almost reach out
and touch the rock face and peer very closely into very interesting looking
cave. We have not been short of company with all the vendors from
Wallilabou popping round to try their chances. We feel so sorry for them,
particularly when they are super polite and not pushy, that we end up buying
fruit that we don’t really need. It was fun though when Garfield broke
open a coconut and we enjoyed the coconut water over ice with a squeeze of lime,
mm hmm.
I had my own near death experience when happily snorkelling. Thank
heaven for the fender step which I tow around with me in case I need a little
rest. A pirogue unexpectedly shot in, going flat out, between a rock and a
hard place where I had thought myself safe. Spotting the white fender he
dodged past within inches (okay, feet) otherwise I would have been liquidised.
Bless him, he was courteous enough to come back and apologise. Otherwise a
most pleasant potter around the rock bottom.
Taxi was due at 6pm (Bob for some reason didn’t fancy taking the dinghy out
tonight) so a quick change, half a blog and we are ready to hit town, or rather
the Rock Side Cafe. |