12:39N 061:23W Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau

Wind Charger
Bob and Elizabeth Frearson
Fri 24 May 2013 22:17
Last night turned out to be a triumph. The Lazy Turtle is run by an
Italian and serves Italian food, opens when it says it will open, and not a rice
grain or pea in sight but in a good way. I had lasagne and Bob had spag
bol each laden with oodles of melting cheese. I have experienced a sugar
rush before but not a cheese rush, it was divine and we groaned our way back to
Windy.
This morning, a beautiful sunny day, the haze gone, Simon was at the
appointed place with his “taxi”. It was, as anticipated, in the same
condition as his boat and his boat engine, i.e. decrepit. The passenger
seat was hammered out of the way to let me in to the back seat, the doors all
needed a rattling thump to close them, the carpets, a mixture of lino and rug
off cuts covered the holes in the floor. It was disconcerting to watch the
road go by beneath my feet through the gaps. We did however get to
Hillsborough in one piece with just the one stop for Simon’s papers to be
examined by a pair of smartly attired, swanking cops. Apparently he was
actually able to produce a certificate of worthiness and insurance for his
vehicle.
At Hillsborough we wandered down to the Immigration office and waited our
turn in the tiny office. The chap in front was experiencing the identical
sarcasm that the same officious chap had thrown at Bob when we checked in.
It made us happy. The next chap was a Frenchman from Martinique and he was
having enormous trouble getting his tongue around the name Hillsborough.
He said it as “Ill-bow-roo” and it took several of my attempts at coaching to
get it into anything resembling itself. When he said he was going on to
Onion island I nearly fell apart. The officials looked on with rigid
faces. The Frenchmen concluded his business and left at which point the
remaining people, me and Bob and the two officials, started saying “Ill-bow-roo”
and giggling. Those officious officials transformed into wobbling jellies
of laughter. We could hear them still saying it and collapsing into fits
of giggles when we closed the door behind us.
We left Tyrell Bay and threaded our way north waiting to see what the wind
was doing. After a while it picked up to a gentle 12 to 14 knots so we
decided that with a bit of jiggery pokery we could easily make it to Mayreau and
set sail. It was just one of those perfectly glorious, sailing in the
Caribbean days. We romped along comfortably, bounding along a gentle sea
and sat back to enjoy the ride. We only needed to put in two tacks,
carefully timed so that cook was on the right tack for lunch, and we were
there. Salt Whistle Bay is just a picture book Caribbean place, a sandy
beach with palm trees and just a few locals selling touristy stuff on the
beach. There is a resort too, but cleverly hidden from sight and, as we
discovered when making enquiries regarding dinner, with absolutely no guests at
all at the moment. We have instead opted for the beach bar pre ordering
chicken and whatever happens to come with it, probably rice.
We had a good snorkel, there seemed to be a lot more brown fish including a
pair of mackerel like chaps who kept coming around for a good stare at us.
We were delighted to find our anchor dug in to perfection in a nice sandy patch
between weeds and only feet away from some rather nasty concrete blocks.
We were obviously very lucky today, it has been glorious.
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