15:57N 061:19W Saint Louis, Marie Galanate
Wind Charger
Bob and Elizabeth Frearson
Mon 16 Dec 2013 21:48
Another absolute corker of a sail today. We came out of the lea of
Dominica to be met by bulging, bold waves and a strong wind gusting up to 32
knots. Windy slashed into the waves, sending spurts of surf dramatically
in all directions, including over us. It was thrilling. It was hard
work fighting our way in the direction that we wanted to go but good old Windy
held steady, close hauled and made excellent progress. We decided that the
combination of bumps and grinds and pouring milk over cereal was a poor
combination so stuck to the tasty pomme bananas that Winston had bought us
yesterday for breakfast, followed by a snack of some ancient hob nobs that Bob
found lurking in the goody drawer.
We remembered all the little things that happened on Dominica that didn’t
make it to the blog yesterday: the squished boa constrictor on the road,
that snake oil make a very good liniment, Winston stopping suddenly leaping out
and handing us a branch of bay, that bay rum oil makes a good liniment, the way
that Winston beeped his horn with a shouted greeting, beeped his horn with a
shouted warning and beeped his horn for the pure hell of it, even beeping his
horn at a meandering drunk who promptly fell across the roadside ditch like a
crazy bridge. It made Winston cackle with glee. A fun day.
We reached Marie Galante at 13:30, got our bearings in yet another enormous
bay, parked up and settled to a tasty lunch of the delicious duck that we had
bought from the Huit a huit (that actually opens from 9am to 6pm), with a salad
of oranges (that are actually green), beetroot and crispy, crunchy christophenes
washed down with a Carib beer. You can’t beat it.
We then ventured ashore to investigate and find somewhere nice for
dinner. It turned out that Saint Louis had died, or gone into a sleeping
beauty’s sleep. The odd ancient person sat on their veranda and muttered
“Bonsoir”, but most of the houses and shops were shuttered firmly to keep out
the anglais. We eventually found a desultory bar that was actually open
and with great reluctance on the part of the patron, bought a beer. They
made it clear that we were not welcome and we paid and left as the ubiquitous
shutters were slammed up. And “they were not opening this evening for
dinner, so there” was the gist from the snooty patron who gave us a good old
fashioned Gallic shrug and grimace straight out of the rudest Parisian
cafe.
We know when we are not wanted so have returned to Windy to hunker down to
more home cooking with the vague notion that we may have disturbed a town of
zombies. C’est la vie!
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