Wednesday in Fort de France
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Wind Charger
Bob and Elizabeth Frearson
Wed 17 Dec 2014 22:53
Sacre Coeur and Mon Dieu, the restaurant we had booked was open. It
is called Josephine (yes that one, the “not tonight” one, she was born in
Martinique) and has at least two pages of the Martinique Restaurant Guide
devoted to its charms, its decor, its views, its contemporary twist on creole
favourites etcetera. We were looking forward to our gala dinner! We
entered a second floor dining room, really quite elegant with linen tablecloths,
polished glasses and the most god awful smell. We chose from the menu,
prawn cocktail for Bob and goujons in sesame seeds for me, then lamb for Bob and
prawns in rhum vieux for me. A quick look ahead told us that there was our
old favourite, banana flambe on offer for pud. We sat back in the
uncomfortable chairs that were giving us both a numb bum, and watched in
increasing horror as the dishes arrived. Bob’s prawns, patently fresh from
the microwave, arrived warm. My goujons were like rubber. The main
course was even worse. Bob’s lamb was like Morrisons basic range chops and
served with potatoes “in a saucy thing that wasn’t too bad” to quote
himself. My three large prawns (impossible to remove their coats because
they had gone soggy in the microwave and there was no finger bowl) were
accompanied by a pile of plain rice, a scattering of boiled potatoes a la school
days and a lettuce leaf, just the one. We hoped that pudding would redeem
this sorry affair but the banana flambe arrived, without flames, and sat on our
plates looking like penii flopee, it really is the only description I can
give.
This morning we arose really bright and early to commute over to Trois
Islets and join, with trepidation I confess, the mangrove swamp tour. A
lovely boy who spoke wonderful French but only a smattering of English, gave us
the tour. It was fantastic. With the help of the other participants,
who translated where they could, we were able to get the gist of the fauna and
flora and the four different varieties of mangrove tree. We saw lots of
crabs, birds, even an eagle thing clutching a fish in its claws and learnt how
to catch crabs, the land crab variety of course. There was some confusion
over the translation of what the loud plopping noises were that could be heard
regularly. “Mitan” I was told. “Is that a bird?” I enquired of the lovely
old lady, covered in head to toe to keep the mosquitoes out, “It is methane” she
replied trying to keep a straight face. We dropped into an uninhabited island on
our return where they have a collection of native trees and plants that we were
shown around, touching the sensitive grassy thing and making it play dead,
tasting the various fruits (the mandarin was not yet ripe and the purple berry
really rather dank) but it was great fun. We then sat together and bonded
with our group over some rhum agricole which proved to be perfect cough medicine
for me, and a slice of delicious cake that I nearly had to share with a very
forward chicken who was very keen to join in. It transpired that the
others, people not chickens, came from France and one couple from Germany and we
were a very happy and close knit group after only a few hours together.
The trip was the highlight of our day but turned out to be rather tiring to
the old and frail crocks not in the best of health. We have spent the rest
of the day doing what we do best, relaxing and watching the world go
by. |