Admiralty Bay, Bequia

Wind Charger
Bob and Elizabeth Frearson
Sun 25 May 2014 22:56
It was time for dinner, Bob prepared to tool himself up with the faithful
Maglite (a torch that unusually does work) but frantic searches would not reveal
its hiding place, bearing in mind that a boat is not a large place to play hide
and seek. We had to use “Rupert’s torch” instead which is inclined to
misbehave somewhat like Rupert himself. Unable to raise the L’Auberge
Grenadine, as recommended by the nice French lady at St Pierre, we pottered
ashore to the Gingerbread Hotel, renowned for its curries, heaving ourselves on
to the dinghy dock with Bob style grunts, exclamations and girly giggles.
Curry may have been the speciality on the menu but they served a very Caribbean
version, pleasant enough but it didn’t set the world , or the palate, on
fire. On our return, Bob searched again, even trying the fridge and
freezer but nope, it would not reveal itself.
This morning we were all ready, bright eyed, bushy tailed and bag packed
for our run ashore. Bob dropped us three girls at the dinghy dock and then
puttered back to the boat to do “man jobs”, possibly the equivalent of the
potting shed. We met our taxi driver, a charming fellow called Eric, in a
traditional Bequia taxi, a pick up truck equipped with seating, a canopy in the
back for the passengers and a removable kitchen step whereby Eric would most
gallantly hand us in and out as if we were regal ladies alighting from our
carriage. Eric then shouted his descriptive patter out of the window which
makes it hard to hear but was most informative at each of our stops. The
tour encompassed: the whaling village home to endless Olivierres and a whole
number of very mixed race residents with black rasta men with sea green eyes,
the fishing village complete with a bank of coloured fishing boats basking on
the shore (it being Sunday), the airport built on land reclaimed on the Bequians
behalf by the expert Dutch, the fort (of which very little, indeed nothing
recognisable at all remains) overlooking Admiralty Bay complete with cannon
dating from 1717, Mount Pleasant the highest point of the island with stunning
views for miles around with sea and strings of islands (Mustique, Union, Canouan
and more) stretching tantalisingly off to the horizon , the turtle sanctuary
with the deformed turtle that has been kept as a pet so is now 16 years old and
just loves to have her back scratched, it sends her into such ecstasies that she
splashes the back scratcher with enthusiastic flips of her flippers.
Amongst all this we had a most enjoyable nature lesson and foraged for lemon
grass, cinnamon leaves and coconut to take back to the boat for a potentially
interesting Caribbean invention test. We were having such a good tour that
lunch was rather late but worth waiting for. The Sugar Reef Hotel looks
out on to an ideal film location Caribbean white sand beach, coconut trees and
the turquoise Atlantic with bold waves energetically whooshing in breaking over
the reef. A perfect view. Lunch was delicious. I insisted that
the girls tried the quintessentially Caribbean callalloo soup, a large bowl of
leafy and delicious broth with three spoons. Sara then had tuna cooked
perfectly, pink as could be in the middle and super sizzled on the
outside. Susie had a fish sandwich which sounds very boring but was
actually very tasty and I went for the roti, another Caribbean speciality, with
a delicious black bean salsa which was a triumph. The girls surprised me
by being very keen on key lime pie (an American run hotel obviously) , so keen
that they insisted on one each none of this sharing nonsense. I had ice
cream, maybe another potentially boring choice but delicious when it is coconut
and nutmeg, mm hmm (said in a West Indian way). Thank you
Susie.
We rolled back, with our food babies, under the guidance of the gallant
Eric, hailed Captain Bob who motored over looking very professional, proud wife,
picked us up (with our bag of foragings) and returned us to WIndy. I
grabbed my cushion ration (two PAIRS each Susie), made myself comfortable and
haven’t moved an inch since. Bob has had a very busy day, fixing the front
cabin door so it actually closes, the bathroom door so it actually closes, taped
closed the courtesy light so that it gets its full share of electricity and
glued the seal back on to the cubby hole so it too closes. As well as
getting everything to close he has been busily making water because three girls
use a lot. He also discovered the lost torch. Nowhere obscure but
where most torches live, the chart table. Too much gin? For his last
job of the day I have just heard the pop of a cork and am hoping that this will
soon be followed up with a nice cold glass of Gavi di Gavi, thank you
Sara.
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