Spellbinder's Web Diary - Tuesday 30 Aug - Mon 12 Sept 2011 - Marina di Ragusa, Sicily to Cagliari, Sardinia

Tuesday 30 Aug - Mon 12 Sept 2011 - Marina di Ragusa, Sicily to Cagliari, Sardinia

Spellbinder

Fri 16 Sep 2011 09:02

Spellbinder nosed out of the new marina at Marina di Ragusa on Tuesday 30 August 2011. Onboard were Henry, neice Fiona and husband Hugh Fell, great neice Honor and friend Charlie. The boat had been parked in Ragusa during the hot July and August months and was now on her way to the harbour at Licata 35 miles to the northwest. A hot west southwest wind was blowing that soon had us bowling along in a good breeze, but after three hours the wind freshened unexpectedly and veered and we were reefing down in the face of a F6 blow from the west. The subsequent beat up to Licata was exciting but hot work under the burning sun but a chance for the new crew to get to know the boat! Licata is on the northwest corner of a wide bay, so passing oil rigs on the way we sought some lee from the short steep waves under the north coast of the bay. Just as the sun set we made the last tack to make the entrance to the harbour and were surprised to be met by a rib from a vast new marina being built in the east limb of the harbour. It had been our intention to anchor here but this was now prohibited. Once past two new inner breakwaters, two lines of red unlit buoys marked the channel into the marina and we were glad to have the rib to guide us in. A most friendly welcoming committee secured Spellbinder alongside and we were there after a boisterous first day sail. The next day was spent in Licata enjoying the friendly baroque charm and an excellent restaurant before sailing on 1 Sept for Sciacca another 45 miles up the south coast of Sicily. This time, however, there was no wind except for one hour goosewinged and we sweltered in the heat as the motor throbbed below. That afternoon the engine was stopped for hands to bathe and all except Henry dived over the side. We reflected on the mayhem that occured along this coast during the Sicily landings of 1943. At Sciacca we were welcomed at a small marina run by the Lega Navale Italiana and Antonetta the english speaking secretary and we enjoyed the facilities of the club including the food in their small restaurant on the quay. After exploring Sciacca we sailed to Marsala the home of the dessert wine popular in England in the 19th century. Here we spent a night at the CN Lilibeo well looked after by Vincenzo and his team before sailing out to Isola Favignana which is one of the Egadi islands off the northwest tip of Sicily. It was a good beat out to the island where Spellbinder anchored overnight and the Fell family and Charlie landed in the dinghy. The following morning we sailed back to Marsala for the first crew change that evening. Martin Craven flew in on the flight that Charlie sadly flew out on. The next leg of the cruise to Sardinia required an overnight passage of 178 miles but we were to be delayed in our departure by a strong north wind (the Tramontana) that was to bar our way for 3 days. The Fells took to the summit of Mte S Giuliano (2480 ft) and chilled out in the comfort of a hotel on the site of Erice. Our delay meant Honor had to fly back from Trapani to meet a field trip deadline in Denmark and we were sorry to see her go. Meanwhile Martin and Henry visited the archaeological museum at Marsala where some remains of a Punic rowed galley (250BC) are on display. This vessel had been sunk in the battle off Favignana when Rome defeated the Phoenecians at the end of the first Punic war. The museum was fascinating and free to anyone over 65! The passage to Sardinia started at 0650 on Sat 10 September when Spellbinder slipped her berth at CN Lilibeo (incidentally Lilibeo was the name the Phoenicians used for Marsala). It was a gentle passage for the most part with some sailing at times in a southeast wind that reached F4 at times, but the wind was almost dead astern and it was difficult to get in a steady groove. Interest was provided by a ship with a drilling rig on it passing by at 12 knots but above all by the antics of a yellow fin tuna. Henry had retired to the quarterdeck seat and happened to notice a shape right under the counter of the yacht. Cursing that it may be weed caught round the rudder on closer inspection it was seen to be a 5ft tuna that was nuzzling up to the stern of the boat twisting its body to get right under the counter. It stayed with us for over half an hour but we had no idea what it was doing - could it be eating some weed on the top of the rudder, enjoying the ride in the slipstream or relishing the aereated water bubbling around the stern? - answers on a postcard please. Whatever it was doing it was enough for Hugh to put away his fishing rod and feel some respect for the fish that would have made an awful mess of the deck if caught. Overnight Spellbinder sailed serenely on under boomed out genoa and mainsail with a F3/4 east southest astern. It was a pleasant night under the waxing moon and at 1500 the following afternoon Spellinder anchored off a sandy beach outside the harbour at Villasimius, Sardinia after a passage of 178 miles. All the crew including HB went for a swim and observed the anchor well dug in to the sandy bottom. That night was the coolest so far and the crew slept well. Spellbinder reached Cagliari the next day after a lovely sail up the north coast of the gulf of Cagliari. Here we were to say farewell to Fiona and Hugh before sailing on to Mallorca in the Balearics.