at Puerto Mogan, Gran Canaria, Sunday 21st October

Spellbinder
Sun 21 Oct 2007 22:52
Jane duly arrived onboard on Sunday evening. After a slow start on Monday morning to allow for settling in, hire car return and supermarket shopping, we left marina Rubicon for the 8 mile sail across to Isla Lobos, and an anchorage recommended by Klaus. After a late lunch Eric, Jane and Martin went in by dinghy to the lovely bay, protected by a reef, and with beautiful clear turqoise water, exactly as Klaus had described. Swimming and walks on the beach before returning onboard for supper and a night at anchor.
Tuesday 16th saw us underway by 0830 for a 38 mile passage down the coast of Fuertaventura to Gran Tarajal in a pleasant northerly breeze. We initially went in to the harbour and tied up against the harbour wall next to the life boat. Very rudimentary marina,although new pontoons were being constructed. Decided to go out and anchor in the bay. Ashore by dinghy, landing in the fishing harbour, after a walk around the very tourist free town settled on a restaurant adjacent to the fish harbour apparently run by the fishing co-operative.Enjoyed first class fish soup,and grilled fresh fish assortment, and headed back to the dinghy feeling very pleased with life, only to find the gate to the quay was locked. Eventually Eric made an heroic ascent of the gate using a plank of wood, and we were able to return onboard.
On Wednesday morning Henry, Eric and Jane went ashore, dropped off on the beach by Martin. Martin and Bunny then set about trying to clear a mass of fishing line which we found around the propellor and rudder. Shades of northern Spain for our avid readers. Martin made a series of dives, and Bunny provided an excellent knife, and much moral support, including devising a fixed line which greatly helped in getting down to the working area. After about half an hour, decided to take a break for coffee and a warm up, and await the return of Eric, a trained diver. He duly took up the baton, and soon had cleared the remainder of the tangle. Much relief all round. Photo will be put on blog as soon as possible.
After a leisurely lunch and siesta we set of for an overnight passage to cover the 72 miles to Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, rather too long to fit in a daytime passage. We enjoyed a good sail down the coast of Fuertaventura in a northerly force 4 to 5. As we cleared the southern tip of the island we picked up the atlantic swell, which combined with the fresh wind gave us quite an uncomfortable night. Raised the light of Gran Canaria some 30 miles off, and then had to contend with trying to spot shipping against the background of shore lights. Bunny and Martin were surprised by a cruise ship which popped out of the background. Henry and Eric had an altogether more alarming experience when what they initially took to be the lights of a funicular running up the slopes of Gran Canaria eventually proved to be an enormous oil rig under tow, and Spellbinder was rather alarmingly positioned between the towing tugs. All sorted in time to alter course aound the tugs, but definitely left a strong impression!
Very pleased to secure alongside the reception pontoon in Las Palmas marina just before 9am. General domestics, catching up on sleep and a little exploration filled the rest of the day, with a very ejoyable meal in the older part of the town in the evening.
On Friday morning it was time for Eric and Jane to head off for their walking holiday in La Gomera. Bunny and Martin spent the morning visiting the market, and then returned onboard for some serious discussions on provisioning for the longer crossings. All three of us then went off to the loal supermarket to have a look at what was available,and haul back a load of heavy goods with the aid of a taxi. Finally got everything stowed,and settled for supper on board and an early night.
The main aim of Saturday was to get to a place where we could watch the rugby. No room to stay at Las Palmas because of the gathering of yachts for the ARC, an Atlantic crossing rally which attracts hundreds of boats. We headed south to Puerto de Mogan, in the south of the island, another of Klaus's recommendations, where we had booked a berth by phone.Tremendous sail in a fresh northerly force 4-5, blasting along at 7-8 knots.Slight hitch when we found we were very rapidly approaching a large fish farm, not marked on the chart! Managed to take avoiding action, and continued with a keen lookout. Berthed at Mogan at 4.30,and identified a suitable bar with a tv. Ashore at 7 to bag a table and watch the inevitable, but none the less very gripping, outcome.
Today, Sunday, has been a quiet day, with the morning spent planning,and the afternoon spent pottering around this very pleasant little town, a holiday resort but very tastefully done and a striking contrast to some of the concrete horrors we passed along the coast. Tomorrow we plan to sail across to the southern end of Tenerife, a 47 mile trip.