Sunday 25th May Bermuda
Spellbinder
Sun 25 May 2008 15:07
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Henry enjoyed a busy two weeks in Bermuda, between
tripping around the island researching information for the RCC Pilot books, and
getting the enngine and boat maintenance up to date. All this punctuated by a
continuing succession of depressions coming through causing unsettled weather
with gales which necessitated moving off Captain Smokes and out to anchor on
Friday 9th, helped by friendly crew from other yachts. Quite a community built
up as yachts heading up from the Caribbean bound either for the east coast of
the USA or the Azores and on to Europe became stuck in Bermuda because of the
unfavourable weather, so that 100 yachts were in St George by last Monday, some
having been held up for two weeks or more. Henry got back in to Capt Smokes on
Wed 14th, after 5 days at anchor, only to have to go back out to anchor on
Friday 16th in the face of another impending gale.
Martin returned on the evening of Saturday 17th,
and on Sunday morning we decided it was calm enough to go back on to the marina.
Marina perhaps gives the wrong idea, it is one section of concrete quay, wide
enough for 6 boats to secure bow or stern to, held out by lines run out to heavy
ground tackle. simple, but all made very enjoyable by the attention of Bernie
who sems to treat us all as part of his family. After securing, we set off on
the bus to St David, planning to climb the lighthouse there to take advantage of
a magnificent view across St George's sound. Unfortunately the lighthouse was
closed for repairs, so we had to make do with a good pub lunch at the Black
Horse Inn on the waterfront.A lovely sunny day.
Monday we took the bus to a nearby supermarket, to
stock up on dry provisions, and to recce the availability of fresh produce. Keen
to avoid stuff imported chilled from the USA, which is most of the fruit and
veg, as it does not keep well back onboard. Nothing local there, but we came
back with a taxi load of dry goods, all duly stowed away. Out for dinner with
our very friendly US neighbouring boat, Gil and Joy, and Dave from Clover
111.
Tuesday there were a couple of departures from the
marina, taking advantage of south westerly winds towards the Azores, including a
Dutch boat with two young children, who apparently take it all in their stride,
including bad weather. Amazing. In the face of more bad weather forecast for
later in the week, we moved along from the end berth we had occupied, to go
bows out( and therefore facing the wind) in the centre of the wall. The
windward end berth was then taken by an 80 foot yacht, which we
decided would give us excellent shelter from the forecast wind, so we did not
need to go out to anchor for the next blow. Unsettled weather, so remained local
for laundry and onboard chores.
Wednesday was the day scheduled for the ARC boats
to depart for the Azores, so we walked over to the Club to see what was
happening. Found all but 2 of the boats had departed on Tuesday, to get ahead of
the next disturbance, including Ad Valorem who we heard had developed a leak on
the way up from the BVI's. Apparently all fixed.Then walked out to visit St
Catherine's fort and museum, only to find it closed for repairs.Good views to
the north.
On thursday morning we went over to the Bermuda
Institute of Ocean Science, for their weekly visitors tour. A fascinating 2
hours, hearing about their long term data collection, taking advantage of the
isolated position out in the centre of the Atlantic. A particular interest is in
monitoring the phytoplankton which take up CO2, and contribute 50% of the
globes capacity, the remainder mainly coming from the tropical
rainforest.The plankton require trace elements to function, and one team is
studying the provision of iron, which principally comes from airborn dust from
the Sahara, which relies on the same atlantic weather circulation that provides
the trade winds to propel sailing vessels to and from the Americas.A major
source of funding for their work comes from supplying data to the insurance
industry, as they struggle to assess the financial risks of rising ocean levels
resulting from global warming. Bermudans are aware of the possible impact of
change, the sea was once 300 feet lower around the island during the last great
ice age. Plenty of food for thought.
On Friday, we took the bus into Hamilton for a look
round. The town is dominated by the cruise ships, with the attendant shops
selling expensive things which cruise ship visitors seem to require. In the
afternoon went to look round the Underwater Exploration institute. A very
interesting set of displays, with a lot of focus on all the wrecks which have
occured over the centuries, and the artefacts recovered. Back in time for the
new arrivals from the UK, Eric, John and Rob, and for an informal barbecue
with other boats crews.
Early start on Saturday morning by bus to a
promised farmers market in Hamilton. Found a good variety of locally grown fruit
and veg, so we were able to stock up well, and sent Rob back well and truly
laden, while John and Martin headed off to a recommended supermarket for meat
and dairy produce. Back by lunchtime, and then cooked up two hot meals in
expectation of setting off Sunday morning. Henry re appearad with latest weather
at tea time, and we decided it would be best to delay another day, as Sunday was
promising strong north east wind, right on the nose for our planned course! Out
for dinner, with Bernie as a thank you for all his help.
So now we are ready for off, and hoping to leave
Monday morning, when promised east winds will allow us to get further north, and
round the top of the developing Azores high. Around 1800 miles to go, and
expecting to take about 16 days, as ever depending on winds and currents, which
seem remarkably disinclined to behave in accordance with the
theory.
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