Spellbinder's Web Diary - Sunday 8th May Koroni, Peleponnese

Sunday 8th May Koroni, Peleponnese

Spellbinder

Sun 8 May 2011 10:30

Monday 2nd May, after a bouncy night at anchor, the weather had quietened down enough for us to take the dinghy in and take a look at Milos. We took the bus up the hill from the port to the capital Plaka. From there we climbed up the hill to the Venetian castle at the summit, and were rewarded with extensive views. Back down to the archeological museum, shut on Mondays, and then on down to the remains of ancient Melos, with a Roman amphitheatre looking out over the bay, and ancient Christian catacombs, shut on Mondays. Found a good taverna for lunch in Trypiti, just above the ruins, and then enjoyed a lovely walk back down to the port on an old donkey track. Warm enough for a swim after all that.
Over in the dinghy for a chat with our neighbour HR 39 Caladh 3, to discuss the best tactic for our next leg to Monemvasia on the southern tip of the Peloponnese. Decided on an 11pm departure to make best use of the wind to get across the 70 miles before a forecast strong wind on the nose. So after an early supper and a snooze, we set off in company. A mixture of sailing and motoring gave us good progress. One very near encounter with a large ship, eased by the wonderful AIS and a vhf phone chat to clarify their intentions, and a few other routine entertainments, and we were alongside Monemvasia harbour by 1030am, closely followed by Caladh 3. Second breakfast, and lunch ashore in a taverna with Richard and June from Caladh 3, before catching up on sleep. Up for tea to celebrate Spellbinder's 5th birthday, cake and candles!
Wednesday 4th May brought another birthday, this time Anne. Set off after breakfast to walk across the causeway to the mini Gibraltar of the medievel town crowned by a magnificent castle. Made our way right to the top, marvelling at the scope of the structures, and wandered amongst the ruins and the glorious wild flowers, before descending to walk through the old town, now being much restored, and a big tourist stop, although not too busy at this time of year. Returned to yesterday's taverna for a well earned lunch. 6pm was party time, joined by Caladh 3, with a very super chocolate cake and Greek champagne. A jolly event, followed by supper ashore.
The weather suggested another day in Monemvasia, so we planned to hire a car and drive the 60 kilometres to Yeraki on Thursday.
Our departure was delayed by the sudden realisation after breakfast that the holding tank was full and spilling. Immediately left the harbour and headed into the bay to try and sort out what had gone wrong. Caldh 3 meanwhile had thought we had panicked at the weather forecast and set off, and very kindly set about retrieving our washing from the laundry before planning to follow us. A bit of basic engineering and we were soon on our way back alongside, to be greeted by some confusion! All resolved, and off we went to Yeraki. Another magnificent hill top castle and many Byzantine churches in the old settlement on the hillside below the castle. We were lucky to find a team of restorers at work, so were able to admire the wall paintings inside one of the churches dating from 1560.Up to the castle for very extensive views, and a walk along the ridge for a mile or so, surrounded by wonderful wild flowers, before driving on to the modern village of Yeraki. After some confusion found a taverna open, and enjoyed lunch before driving back. Early night in expectation of another early start to get round Cape Melea on Friday.
Thursday night was much disturbed by the arrival of a sequence of Russian crewed yachts, the first one arriving at midnight, and not finally securing until 1.30 after much shouting and manouvering. We were up at 5.45, and by the time we were ready to leave there were more large yachts milling around with shouting Russians. We made good our escape, and motored down towards the cape in a light northerly, closely followed by Caladh 3. rounded the cape just before 9, and were soon in strong quartering winds. Put in a second reef, and hung on tight as we foamed along in gusts up to 40 knots, exceeding 9 knots at one point, a bit swift for Spellbinder. Things calmed down a bit after a couple of hours, as we pulled away from the cape and made our way across the gulf of Lakonia towards Porto Kaiyo, a very sheltered enclosed bay just north of cape Tenario, anchoring just after 2pm. Joined an hour or so later by Caladh 3, anchored in close company. An early night after all that excitement.
Saturday 7th dawned clear and sunny, so we set off before breakfast for the 40 miles to Koroni at the south of the Messinia peninsula. A light beam wind encouraged us to dig out the genneker, and we sailed along nicely for an hour or so until the wind died and we were back on the motor. Anchored at Zanga beach for a swim before dodging round the corner under another magnificent Venetian castle to anchor in Koroni harbour. A bit bouncy in a fresh afternoon breeze, so we stayed onboard for the evening.
Today was quieter, so after breakfast we took the dinghy in and explored the castle, another impressive structure, and pottered in the pretty town before lunch. Sunday routine in the afternoon. Tomorrow we have 20 miles to go to Methoni, and an easier week in prospect to get us to Zakynthos.