Sunday 6th January 2008 - at Wallilabou bay, St Vincent
Spellbinder
Sun 6 Jan 2008 19:42
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Last Sunday we went as planned to Pigeon Island, at
the northerly tip of Rodney bay. Pigeon Island is run by the St Lucia
national trust, and has an interesting visitor centre which covers the history
of this strategically located island. Rodney based the English fleet here in the
late 1700's, when we were in hot competiton with France who had their fleet
located across the 25 mile channel in Fort Royal, Martinique. So we learnt some
details of how the Battle of the Saintes developed, and it's historical
importance both for naval tactics and for the West Indies. Then a good walk
around to see the fortifications, and up to the top to admire the view to
Martinique. Photos to follow. Back down to the beach front restaurant, Jambe de
Bois, named after a 17th century French pirate who had his base on the island,
for a pleasant creole lunch.
On Monday, New Year's eve, left Rodney Bay marina,
and headed south to the Soufriere area. Enjoyable sail in a force 4/5 breeze,
eventually tacking in under the Pitons to pick up a mooring off the Harmony
restaurant on Malgretout bay. Dinner in the restaurant, a very relaxed family
set up, and then back on board. Had the benefit ofn three different firework
displays at midnight, the best coming from the very expensive Anse de Chastenet
hotel across the bay.
So we ended 2007, with 6200 miles on the log since
we left Plymouth at the end of May , and 21 visiting crew.
New years day we remained at Malgretout, and then
set off on Wednesday morning to sail down the coast to Vieux Fort, at the
southern tip of St Lucia. A good sail, having to beat up to windward as the
wind bends around the southern tip of the island. Anchored off the fishing
port, and ashore for a look round after a late lunch.Very non touristy place, we
were the only yacht visiting. Bought a very fresh small tuna on the quay, and
then strolled round the town to get our bearings, before having a sundowner on a
bar terrace overlooking the anchorage. Back to find Jack had kept an eye
on the dinghy as promised, so returned onboard for tuna supper.
Thursday morning went ashore to clear customs and
immigration, ready for going on to St Vincent. Customs in the commercial
dock, very helpful, but then had to go to the airport for immigration, about a
mile out of town. Failed to get a bus, so accepted a taxi, very chatty driver,
Byron Hippolyte, who also waited to take us back into town, and then delivered
us back to the boat with our shopping from the supermarket. back ashore for
lunch at a very local spot, recommended in the guide books, and then some time
in an internet spot beore sundowners and back onboard.
Friday morning we were underway by 0900 for the
trip across to St Vincent in a brisk north easterly wind. Quite big seas in the
straits between the islands, and definitely easier going south, so we made good
time for the 34 miles to Wallilabou bay, picking up a buoy at 1430. So now we
are part of a film set, this is the location used in 2003 for the Pirates of the
Caribbean film. Most of the set remains, some of the buildings used as a
restaurant. ashore to clear customs, who visit for an hour each afternoon.
Immigration has to be done in a neighbouring village police station, so off we
set for Barrouallie the next morning, walking the mile or so in the company of a
very chatty local lady. No trouble competing immigration, but cash machine and
phone problems persuaded us to take the bus on into Kingstown, bus being a mini
bus, crammed full and driven at truly suicidal speed on the narrow and twisting
road. A hair raising half hour. Admin all sorted out in Kingstown, some
puchases in the market, full of beautiful local produce, lunch and a walk out to
the Botanic Gardens on the outskirts. There we were taken charge of by Errol
Keane, the professor to his colleagues, who gave us a very instructive
tour.Claimed to be the oldest botanical gardens in the western world, they were
started in 1765 to collect and breed specimens for Kew, and contain some
magnificent mature trees. Also there is a section devoted to a breeding
programme for the native St Vincent parrot, a fine looking bird almost hunted to
extinction for the pet trade. Could not face the bus back, so Errol fixed a taxi
for us, and we had an interesting ride back with lots of local info, and a chat
with the driver in a bar when we got here. Some insights, his son is off to join
the British army, who are recruiting out here, as prospects are difficult for
the young in the local economy. With a population of 110,000 for St Vincent and
the Grenadine islands, it is difficult to see how they can build a prosperous
economy.
We will stay in St Vincent for most of this week,
heading back to pick up Henry's brother Charles in St Lucia next
Saturday.
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