Saturday 29th December, Rodney Bay, St Lucia
Spellbinder
Sat 29 Dec 2007 19:52
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Hugh, Fiona, Honor and Grace Fell arrived as
expected lunch time Wednesday 19th, and after lunch in the Humming Bird quickly
settled back in to Spellbinder for their third visit, old hands. After 10 days
dinghy sailing in Antigua in 20 knot winds they were ready for a bit of a slow
down, so we remained at the Humming Bird beach for Thursday, and did some
exploring around Soufriere, and some swimming.
Friday we took a little sail, and then went in to
pick up a mooring buoy off Anse Chastanet, just to the north of Soufriere.
Beautiful beach, with an adjacent coral reef which made for excellent
snorkelling, even managed to get Henry in the water. A slightly rolly night made
us think of moving on the next day, but when we awoke in the morning we could
see an armada of yachts coming south along the coast. The ARC ( Atlantic Rally
for Cruisers) had completed the previous day in Rodney Bay in the north of the
island, and 200-300 boats were suddenly on the move looking for a spot for
Christmas. Decided to hang on to our mooring to let the first rush go by, and
spent another pleasant day swimming and exploring the surrounds, including the
very posh hotel above Chastanet beach, and the adjacent Anse Mamin, a quiet
undeveloped beach.
Sunday 23rd we set off after breakfast, and sailed
gently south along the cost to go into the bay between the Pitons, the defining
volcanic peaks of St Lucia's west coast. Close enough to see some seriously
expensive boats moored off Jalousie bay below another upmarket hotel, before
making our way back in to Soufriere and re-securing to "our" palm tree off the
Humming Bird. More swimming ( for some), followed by Sundowners in the Humming
Bird, Henry developing a definite taste for Pina Coladas.
Christmas eve was time for shopping in Soufriere in
the morning, swimming and dinghy trips for the Fell family in the afternoon,
while Henry and Martin walked up out of Soufriere to the Diamond botanical
gardens, in an old plantation on the outskirts of town. Admired cocoa trees, and
learnt how cocoa and chocolate are prepared, a subject close to Henry's
heart, as well as visiting a hot sulphur spring and waterfall. Returned onboard
to find Hugh had somehow encouraged Joseph the boat boy to acquire a beautiful
fresh kingfish for us, so saving us from frozen chicken for Christmas
dinner. All were suitably exercised, and appetites sharpened for Christmas
eve dinner in the Humming Bird, presided over by the very elegant proprietor,
Joyce. Four courses, at Caribbean pace, took us nicely to a little after 11,
when we walked into the church in the middle of Soufriere.There we enjoyed a
festival of carols, joyfully sung to distinctly Caribbean rhythms, and
lessons through to midnight, followed by mid night mass. The vast church was
well filled, the island is strongly catholic from the French influence, and we
were warmly greeted by the priest as we left- by now nearly 1.30am. So back
onboard, and then the obligatory Father Christmas tot while we waited for Honor
and Grace to fall asleep so the stockings could be delivered.
Slow start to Christmas day, but eventually
stockings were opened, including ones for Henry and Martin- see blog photos. In
the afternoon a dinghy party set off across the bay for a swim and walk up to
some hot sulphur bathing pools, apparently very good for the skin, so all had a
good soak before a dip in the sea and an ice cream. Back on board for some more
present opening, and eventually a splendid Christmas dinner of King Fish,
followed by home made Christmas puddding with brandy butter, and white sauce for
Henry - the closest he was allowed to custard! The evening completed with port
wine, collected all those months ago in Porto, and Havannah cigars, courtesy of
Hugh - just to keep the mosquitos off the ladies of course.
Boxing day we awoke to find a large German yacht
had moved in beside us during the night, their anchor had dragged and they found
themselves on the beach at three in the morning. Not at all friendly, moved our
shore line to another tree to make room for theirs without asking, and when
we came to hoist our anchor we found they had layed theirs over ours, so their
chain was across our anchor. Managed to heave their chain off so we could
recover our anchor, but unfortunately lost our boat hook in the process. No
interest or response from them - it takes all sorts. Sailed north in pleasant
force 3/4 breeze, 10 miles took us to Marigot bay, a very sheltered lagoon,
wonderfully scenic surrounded by green clad hills. Picked up a buoy, and settled
down to a late lunch. Fell family explored in the dinghy, and then in the
evening we enjoyed a fine chicken curry and an evening of canasta.
After a leisurely morning in Marigot bay, Hugh
having discovered excellent croissants, we pottered on another 10 miles to
Rodney Bay, enjoying a good sail on the way, the wind got up enough for us to
put one reef in the main. Amazed to see not just two big cruise liners outside
Castries, but three more inside. Finally secured in the marina just before
three. Farewell supper for the Fells, the second half of the King fish, and more
canasta before a fairly early night.
Friday 28th was departure day for the Fell's, but
that did not stop them making a dinghy trip round to Reduit bay for a swim,
before packing and piling in to a taxi at 12.30 for a LIAT flight from Castries
to Antigua. Usual relaxed timing ( LIAT = leaves the island any time) gave them
one minute to make the connection at Antigua, and so head off home. A very quiet
afternoon, triple load at the laundry, and catching up on e-mails
etc.
Today it is raining, so we are having a seriously
domestic morning. Didier has got his team onboard, Yasmin and Kirby, who are
hard at work with vacuum cleaners and upholstery cleaners, freshening everything
up, while Didier shampoos the carpets. All much needed after the rather
intensive use of the boat over the past two months.So we shall be all fresh and
clean for the New Year, or at least the boat will. Probably stay here until
Monday, there is some naval history to explore locally over at Pigeon
Point.
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