Nisiiros to Fethiye 24th-31st October
Spellbinder
Sat 31 Oct 2009 18:01
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We were on our way from Nisiros by 0815, for the 32
miles to Symi, heading east, with an easterly breeze, so it was motor sailing
for the first 6 hours on a sunny morning. By 2pm the wind swung to the south
west, and we managed an hour or so under sail before motoring in to the very
protected bay of Panormittis in the south west corner of Symi.The bay is
dominated by a large monastery, and enjoys the benefit of bells and relays by
loudspeaker of the monastery services.In reality a wonderful spot, with a simple
taverna ashore, and fresh bread from the monastery bakery. So anchor, swim,
drinks and ashore for dinner, with only 2 or 3 other boats in the
bay.
Sunday morning we were up and breakfasted in
time to catch the 0830 mini bus across the island to the main town of Symi,
helped by the clock change.The road climbed up a spectacular series of hair pin
bends, before descending equally spectacularly into the town, an exciting half
hour.Symi town is very attractive, in a deep bay, with a more Italian appearance
in the yellow painted houses climbing up the hillside. Most visitors are day
trippers from Rhodes, and there was a very end of season feel with some good
shopping bargains. After a very pleasant wander and coffee stop, we took the 1pm
bus back to Panormittis.Late lunch and swim, and another visit to the taverna
for supper. Later that evening there was a tremendous lightning strike in the
bay, causing a power failure ashore which stopped the monastery clock, and
silenced the bells.
On Monday morning we were visited by the
skipper of a neighbouring RNSA yacht, who
reported the lightning had struck his yacht and disabled most of his electrics.
We checked and found we had ceased to receive Navtex, but were otherwise
unaffected.The shore party found the monastery bakery out of action, so no fresh
bread. There were still thunderstorms nearby, so we delayed our departure for
Rhodes until the weather cleared towards 1100. We managed about an hours sail
before the wind veered onto the nose, and we motor sailed the rest of the way,
arriving off Rhodes at around` 1600. Into Mandraki harbour, to find no space
available! With another thunderstorm approaching we motored into the area of the
harbour used by the cruise ships, and were very relieved to find a space to
anchor at the head of the recently dredged harbour. The chart showed less than a
metre, but we found over 7 metres, although Eric insisted on rigging a lead line
to check the echo sounder. Just secured before the storm hit, so supper
onboard.
Ashore the next morning to complete departure
formalities for Greece, which took much time and patience. Then the rest of the
day to explore Rhodes old town, in company with the punters from 4 cruise ships.
E, J and P enjoyed a good stroll round the town, and reported the cruise ship
passengers did not get beyond the edge of the town, leaving lots for them to
explore. All back in the evening for another supper onboard.
Wednesday morning we were up early for the 45 miles
to Fethiye, with a forecast 10 knots of north easterly breeze.In fact it was
rather more than that, and once again right on the nose. With a quick look to
establish a diversion port if we could not make it to Fethiye within the
slightly less than 12 hours of daylight, we were off by 0645. A bumpy start,
with heavy black clouds to the north of us threatening another thunderstorm. But
it slowly cleared, and by 1030 the wind was down to the promised 10knots, and we
were making good progress. The day continued to slowly improve, and we were
heading into Fethiye by 1530, and secured to the marina shortly after.Helpful
staff in the marina office explained the process of getting the requisite
transit log, but it was too late for that day, so we settled for a drink and
meal in the marina restaurant.
The next day, Thursday, we set about the entry
formalities, not helped by it being a national holiday.That took most of the
morning, helped by a friendly Brit yacht owner, Ricardo Agnelli, and his
charming Turkish wife who seemed adept at sorting out the bureaucracy. We then
took advantage of the warm sunny day to remove and fold up the sails, and do a
bit of domestics, before a trip into town to look round. Dinner in the evening
in a rather "atmospheric" fish market restaurant.
Friday forecast was good, so we motored 8 miles
across the bay towards Gocjek, and anchored in a bay for swimming and lunch. A
light breeze in the afternoon gave us the chance to admire some of the Gullets
under sail on our way back. On our return we were awarded with a much better
berth in view of our six month stay, so Spellbinder should be nice and snug for
the winter.
Saturday morning was another burst of boat
cleaning, inside and out, before awarding ourselves lunch at a hotel around the
bay, recommended by Ricardo. The place was virtually shut down, but a very "can
do" staff rustled us up a good lunch and kept us entertained as we waited for
yet another thunderstorm to abate. Back onboard for Eric Jane and Peter to
prepare for their journey home.
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