Visit to Leros Sun18th - Tues20th October

Spellbinder
Sun 1 Nov 2009 07:46
Leros according to Eric Thompson.
 
At 0800 on 18th October, Jane, Peter and I arrived in Leros hot or, to be more accurate, cold from Edinburgh via Heathrow and Athens.  The destination was of huge personal significance to me for 66 years previously, my late father's ship HMS INTREPID, a Fleet destroyer, had been dive-bombed by German Stukas whilst at anchor in Lakri Bay.  She was hit on 21 October and capsized and sank the following day. The Greek destroyer QUEEN OLGA which was anchored nearby was also hit in the attack but sank almost immediately with the loss of most of her crew.  The loss of the OLGA was to the Greeks like the loss of the HOOD to the RN. At this time in 1943, the Anzio landings had taken place (covered by INTREPID) and the Allies were fighting their way up Italy;  the Italians had already switched sides to join the Allies; and the Germans were attacking Leros because Lakri was superb natural harbour and a strategically important Italian naval base. British commandos had already taken the island and the sinking of these two ships heralded the start of the short but bloody battle of Leros in which the Germans triumphed.  Much more importanly at this time in the war, I was tucked-up in my late mother's womb kicking-and-struggling, with six weeks to go before delivery.
    With the loss of INTREPID and my father being posted missing-in-action my mother, I presume, considered herself to have been widowed and duly had me christened with my late father's name. However,  the Old Man was not to be dismissed so easily and turned-up later thanks to the good offices of the Greek resistance, a Turkish merchant ship, a Free French destroyer and an overland trip from Beyrout to Alexandria as a result of which I became F G Thompson (Junior), a suffix I retained for another 45 years.  Like most war veterans, father never talked about his experiences but nevertheless Leros was a name which had been in my head for 65 years and, thanks to the kindness of Henry in routing Spellbinder this way, here I was.
    As ever, Henry met us at the small airport (15kg baggage limit in small aircraft) but as we had too much baggage and four bodies to transport (Martin was on the same flight), Henry left Jane and me at a small taverna opposite the airport where no English was spoken (Leros is not a tourist island) but which had a memorial book to the war in which I found a photograph of INTREPID and OLGA in flames.  What an arrival.  I had never seen a photograph of INTREPID before and it was a strange feeling to know that father would have been on board when that photograph was taken.
    The Battle of Leros was of great signifance to the locals for the Germans indiscriminately bombed one of the main towns in a softening-up raid before launching the seaborne invasion which led to hand to hand fighting and eventual defeat. Miraculously, no one was killed in the civilian bombing as the locals had taken shelter in defensive tunnels dug by the Italians - a war museum is now housed in one of the tunnels.  In Lakri we found a recently erected memorial to INTREPID where I signed the book of remembrance.  We also visited an Imperial War Graves Commission cemetry in which 88 British servicemen lie buried, the six INTREPID dead lying side by side: it made me count my blessings as I wondered how many of them had children.
PS    Alistair Maclean's novel "The guns of Navarone" used Leros as the settring