Sunday 16th March Nelson's Dockyard, Antigua
Spellbinder
Sun 16 Mar 2008 17:18
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Tuesday morning we took the bus into St John's for
a look round. Not as appealing as some of our stops, but impressed by the very
fine cathedral, and by a very good museum which gave some good insights into
Antigua. Back in time for lunch and the arrival of Charles and Ros. Dinner
ashore in the Admirals Inn in the dockyard, very atmospheric
location.
Wednesday we set off north to Barbuda in a pleasant
east south easterly breeze, heading up the leeward side of Antigua, with an
early start to get us to Barbuda in good time. Much in the pilot about the need
to be able to spot the shallow coral reefs that surround Barbuda, and also
mindful of the display in St John's museum of the several hundred wrecks that
have occured over the years around Barbuda. GPS makes life much easier, and we
arrived without alarms by 2.30 pm, and went in to anchor off Cocoa Bay in the
south west of the island. A perfect white coral sand beach had us heading ashore
in the dinghy after lunch. Back for sundowners, and a peaceful evening with only
2 or 3 other boats around.
Ashore the next morning to take a look around.
Walked down the beach to the very posh hotel, to be politely shown back to their
perimeter, yachties not welcome. The gatehouse keeper was very friendly and
chatted to us while we waited for a taxi to turn up. 5 miles into
Codrington, where most of the 1500 Barbudians live. Very little to see, very
little happening, definitely sleepy hollow. After a bit of a wander, found our
way to the restaurant mentioned in the guide, even the locals seemed unsure
where it was, for an early lunch. Apart from the hotel on Cocoa beach, the only
other activity on the island seems to be digging out sand for export to Antigua.
Two other upmarket hotels were closed and decaying. So taxi back, and settled
for some more swimming off what must be the best beach so far. Once more,
surprised by the difference between the islands, Barbuda is low lying, with a
flat scrubby interior, quite unlike the volcanic islands, and one wonders about
its future, the majority of the young seem to leave for better prospects
elsewhere.
Friday we sailed back down the windward side
of Antigua, once again a beautiful settled day with about 15 knots of wind
on the beam, and fairly flat sea, about as good as sailing can get. Into
Nelson's dockyard, and secured alongside a 120
foot superyacht, whose vast red ensign just about covers Spellbinder. We are
probably the smallest boat in the marina!
Saturday morning there were jobs to be done. The
RCC burgee had managed to attach itself to the top of the radio antenna, so
Henry was hoisted up to the top of the mast with a pair of scissors, and a
camera. Burgee recovered, and some good shots of the dockyard, one on the blog.
The afternoon was taken up with exchanging Ros and Charles for John
and Sue Cleghorn, who have joined us for the next two weeks to Anguilla. Quiet
day today to allow them to settle in, and an evening trip planned back to
Shirley Heights for the steel band experience. Then on in the morning to
Nevis.
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