Sunday 20th January - Canouan Island, The Grenadines
Spellbinder
Sun 20 Jan 2008 21:41
On the walk back, called in to a hotel on an old plantation, recommended in one of our guides. We were told that it had recently changed hands, and was being done up as the sister hotel to one on Mustique. The owner then walked in to the bar, and told us about his plans. He suggested that we visit his place on Mustique, to see what the Bequia property would look like when finished. On account of Mustique looking prices decided against lunch, and continued back to the boat. Ashore to Princess Margaret beach after lunch for a swim, and eventually sundowners at a very attractive bar on the beach.
On Wednesday, set off again to walk to the other end of the windward coast, to see a whaling museum. An entertaining walk, very friendly people along the way, one remembered the incident of Anthony Eden having a heart attack and being taken off the island in HMS Urchin in '63. Henry was able to tell him that he had driven the motor boat in to shore, and in return we had Eden's house pointed out to us, overlooking Friendship bay. The whaling museum was small and simple, but recalls an important bit of local history, and boatbuilding skills.The islanders only managed 4 or 5 whales a year, which then provided food and revenue when the plantation economy was well gone. Eventually the whale population was severely depleted by Norwegian big ships in the 1920's, who took 174 whales in two years. Whaling continued in a small scale, still using open whalers and hand launched harpoons, until very recently, and the island is still allowed to catch 2 whales a year provided all is used by the islanders, and not exported.
Set sail Thursday morning to go the 12 miles to Mustique, enjoying a lively sail through the gap between Petit Nevis and Isle a Quatre, before picking up amooring just off Basil's bar in Britannia Bay. Went ashore for a wander, bought a fish for supper, and enjoyed sundowners in Basil's bar. Friendly Germans chatted to us, and also met 3 Norwegians that we had last seen in Mindelo. First impressions a bit daunting all very expensive and exclusve feeling.
The next morning Charles rowed ashore for fresh bread and croissants from the Sweety Pie bakery. Silly price for modest fare. After breakfast, Martin and Charles set of to walk across the island, while Henry stayed back to write up pilotage info.The walk proved very enjoyable, meeting friendly people on the way. The island seems devoid of signposts, so we chatted to gardeners and security men to guide us to Macaroni Bay, a perfect crescent beach of silver sand. On the windward side so a bit of surf running, but a good swim before the walk back. Stopped for an ice cream, this time good value, and fell into conversation with a German, who turned out to be an architect working on a house. Very friendly, and told us of free film nights at the Cotton House, the island's very upmarket hotel,saying there would be one that evening. So, after siesta and tea, we spruced up and walked the mile to the hotel. Very charming girl in reception told us we were most welcome to watch the film, an out of doors show after sunset near the beach bar, but Friday was children's night! So we walked across to the other hotel, run by our acquaintance from Bequia, situated on a hill looking down on the harbour. Very pleasant, and fell into conversation with an American film producer at the bar, but were still a bit knocked at having to pay £40 for six drinks! Back on board for supper.
Saturday Charles and Martin set off to walk the leeward coast. All beautifully maintained, the whole island is manicured and very untypical, but we learnt that the Mustique Company that manages the island has a good sized labour force, apparently recruited from St Vincent, and takes care of every aspect of the island. We were most impressed to find an excellent nature trail laid out around the lagoon, with notices explaining how the reef and lagoon interact, and informative signs describing the trees and plants. Clearly ecology is firmly on the agenda. Met a very friendly young man, Malachae, who told us about the nature conservation work he was doing. Enjoyed a swim off Lagoon Beach before returning for lunch. Second walk to the Cotton House, this time to be rewarded with a showing of Memoirs of a Geisha after a beer in their beach bar. Resisted the offer of the beach bar barbeque, and returned onboard for supper.
Nipped ashore Sunday morning to buy some fresh fruit of the beach stall, and then set off for the 15 miles to Canouan Island in a fresh easterly breeze. There in no time, and picked up a mooring before settling down to lunch. Shooed off, the mooring belonged to a charter company, so we dropped anchor instead. Henry and Charles ashore for a brief look round, we will spend tomorrow here re-adjusting to the real world after our extra terrestrial experience at Mustique.