Nisyros Easter Sunday 24th April
Spellbinder
Sun 24 Apr 2011 12:49
|
Henry and Martin flew into Dalaman on Wednesday
13th April, and travelled on to Marmaris. There we stayed at a hotel in Marmaris
while spending the next two days preparing Spellbinder for launching. The hotel
pointed us to a nearby restaurant for supper, out of the town centre and
mainly frequented by locals, where we ate very well and very cheaply each
evening. All was ready for launch by Friday evening apart from the boatyard,
which had a system but one that no one could fathom out. The boats ashore were
very tightly packed together, and a very skilful tractor driver shunted boats
around with only inches to spare. At one stage we thought we were to be put
in on Friday evening, but nothing happened, so we returned early on Saturday
morning ready to go. The day wore on, we had our regular lunch in the boatyard
workers canteen, 3 courses for the equivalent of £3, and still nothing. Then at
4pm along came the tractor man and extracted us from our slot and put us down
near the launch dock. Hopes rose, all we needed now was to be picked up by the
hoist and put in the water. The day wore on, cheese pies for supper as we
waited, until finally at 9pm, in the dark, we were in the hoist, and in the
water. Helped by a full moon we motored round to our allocated berth, and then
headed back to the hotel.
On Sunday we were able to get the sails bent on,
and check all was well, before giving ourselves an early secure, and a wander
round Marmaris. A very attractive old town immediately around a 16th
century castle quickly gives way to endless modern concrete. Monday morning saw
us shopping for heavy and bulky supplies, which we embarked in the boat, ahead
of the arrival of Anne and Ros who flew in to Dalaman in the afternoon. We
returned for our final meal at the little restaurant in Marmaris that evening.
The next day A and R went into Marmaris to seek out fresh fruit and veg,
and take a look round, while Henry waded through the administration require
for our departure. A last minute job to remove and refit the starboard waist
cleat to cure a leak, and we were ready for off.
By 9.30 on Wednesday morning we were ready, and
said our good byes to Marmaris Yacht Marina, with Henry clutching a fine
memorial plate in a posh box. Our initial destination was Buku bay, by the
ancient remains of Loryma, for a final night in Turkey, but with no
wind and a flat sea our rapid progress under engine persuaded us to
keep going on to Symi, where we berthed stern to in the middle of the town at
1545. This allowed Henry to engage with the local beaurocracy, as he was nervous
of getting lost in the slow down for Easter weekend. All went well, we secured
our clearance for Greek waters, and walked up the steep hill to revisit a
taverna we had eaten at last year. Just as good this year.
On Thursday we were off by 0915, heading round the
north of Symi through a narrow shallow passage before hoisting sail and enjoying
our first sail of ther year. The wind dropped after an hour and we had 2 hours
under engine before the wind returned and we had a splendid sail towards
Nisyros, ending up making 8 knots as we approached the harbour entrance. Down
sails, and in to secure stern to the quay in the harbour at Pali by 1530, nice
time for a cup of tea. Dinner onboard, chicken tagine a la Ros, followed by
fiercely competitive canasta. The next morning Henry A and R set off in a hire
car to see the active caldera at the centre of the island, and the other sights
of the island, which Martin had done on his previous visit. Martin dug out his
folding bike, and made his way around the coast to a deserted beach and a first
swim of the year. To Afroditi taverna in the evening.
The plan for saturday was to sail on to Astipalya,
but strong contrary winds persuaded us to stay put. Martin, A and R walked up
the road to the village of Emborio, a 2 hour hike in the sun, but with a cool
breeze. Lunch in a garden in the village, and a coffee in the taverna, before
finding an old donkey track for our descent through masses of wild flowers and a
loud buzzing of bees all around. Back to Afroditi for more good cooking,
noisy evening with lots of bangers being let off to celebrate easter, with a
heavy fusillade at midnight. Another forecast of force 7 westerly wind has kept
us here for one more day, plenty of entertainment with the arrival of a charter
fleet mid morning, and lots of interesting manoeuvres round the harbour. The
forecast looks good for us to continue west to Astipalya
tomorrow.
|
