Tuesday 17th June, Angra do Heroismo, Terceira island, Azores

Spellbinder
Tue 17 Jun 2008 10:15
John and Rob made it as far as Lisbon last Wednesday, before being stranded by a strike, finally getting back to UK on Thursday. We remained in Horta watching the wind blow, the rain fall, and various yachts limp in having been caught in the windier weather that we had just kept ahead of. Amazed again Wed evening by the very good value in a local restaurant. Horta is an attractive town for wandering, so we made the best of it on Thursday, and enjoyed coffee stops in the pastelarias where a latte and cake cost less than a pound. Invited to drinks onboard our neighbouring boat Bizim in the evening, we had first talked to Iain and Ruth in Bermuda, and they had crossed a couple of days ahead of us.Did not quite make it ashore in time for the planned dinner, but went straight to the local cinema where a French film, with Portugese sub titles, was showing. Very Fench, nothing much happened, but all made worthwhile by the radiant presence of Juliette Binoche!
Friday we hired a car for a tour of the island, delighted by the lush green scenery, stopped in an out of the way village for coffee, 50p a cup, and then on to a vulcanology museum at the eastern point of the island, Ponta dos Capelhinhos, which emerged from the sea in a major erruption in 1957/58. Very striking scenery, and some strong human interest in the people who were displaced, and were taken in by the USA. President Kennedy took a direct interest in helping. On to a restaurant for an excellent lunch, hoping that the weather might clear through for the afternoon, as we planned to drive up to the rim of the main crater at just over 1,000 metres. We stuck to the plan, and arrived at the rim in thick cloud and a brisk wind. The view of the 2km crater, and the surrounding islands would have been magnificent! Back to Horta via a local crafts co-operative. Return invitation to Bizim,a very jolly evening, once again dinner somehow never happened.
Saturday the weather was showing signs of improving, and we decided on an early start Sunday morning for the next 70 miles to Terceira.Most of the morning was spent hanging around for the yacht inboard of us to depart, with a diversion hoisting Henry to the top of the mast to clear the burgee from it's entanglement with the radio aerial. Finally shuffled the berth, taking on fuel on the way, and secured alongside a travel stained French yacht. Friendly greeting from George, who at 76 had been on the boat for 20 years, and twice round the world. Much respect. Invited back to Bizim so Ruth could show us what a good Manhattan should be. Very good was the answer to that, and we had another very entertaining evening with them. Iain is from Scotland, Ruth from the USA, and they are on their way to set up home in Turkey. Exchanged virtual addresses, and hope to meet up again in the Med.
Still managed to rouse ourselves at 5am on Sunday, and were soon underway. Very little wind, so it was on with the engine until after lunch. Beautiful sunny day, with enough wind for motor sailing in the afternoon, and a final hour without the engine before entering the harbour at Angra do Heroismo around 6.30. Found a snug berth in the marina, and settled for dinner onboard and an early bed.
Monday the sun shone again, an ideal day for exploring the town, a world heritage site, with it's history rooted in it's role as a staging post for the Spanish treasure fleets returning from the Caribbean, Mexico and South America in the 1600's.Very attractive, and lots more still to see, so we will be here until Wednesday evening, when we plan to make an overnight sail to Ponta Delgada in Sao Miguel island.