Spellbinder's Web Diary - Spellbinder Cruise: Sun 19 Sept

Spellbinder Cruise: Sun 19 Sept - Mon 04 Oct 2010

Spellbinder

Tue 5 Oct 2010 14:34

Waving goodbye to Seto at Cokertme, Spellbinder motored out into the Gokova Korfezi bound for English Harbour near the east end of the bay. It was here that either the SBS had a base, or a RN destroyer (damaged) hid at the end of the war - depending who you listen to! Under a good WSW wind in the afternoon blow Spellbinder anchored in the middle of the bay in a beautiful spot with good shelter. Swims were enjoyed but wasps (gentle) were an irritation drinking the fresh water from the shower on the aft deck. It was a quiet first night for Tricia and Peter but still hot for the time of year. The next day we motored and sailed around to Amazon Creek that was a delightful surprise of a quiet bay in which many turtles were to be found. Tricia swam with these and the experience was the pinnacle of turtle encounters including the much vaunted Dalyan estuary that was a disappointment, but more of that later. Another advantage of Amazon Creek was that the staff of the Amazon Club pick you up in a jeep from some steps near by and welcome you to their evening meal - a very Turkish experience. Owls hooted from the trees fringeing the creek. On Tue 21 Sept we had a fresh westerly wind to beat into to make westings out of the Gulf of Gokova. This I suppose was the meltemi bending into the gulf but gentler than the fierce wind that can blow in July and August when temperatures are at their peak. Reefed down with 6 rolls in the genoa Spellbinder reached the anchorage at Pabuc just east of Bodrum. We had intended to anchor at Mersincik on the Datca peninsular but it started to become all to difficult as the evening drew on. The next day we had a boisterous sail in a W5 across to the ancient harbour and city of Knidos. At times the wind became light and fickle in the lee of the large Greek island of Kos but Spellbinder raced into Knidos reefed down to find a harbour with plenty of space to anchor as the taverna had extended its pontoon area substantially and most yachts were tied up to this. There were some very dodgy looking electrical boxes that boats were hooked up to but one could only wonder what stray earth currents could be there fizzing in the very salty water. A walk around the ancient ruins of Knidos was enjoyed in the relative cool of the morning. Hard to imagine that a city of 70,000 souls lived here in its heyday. Everywhere there was evidence of fresh water channels and courses and the vast lined cisterns that stored this water. It was not hard to imagine the effect of two devastating earthquakes on this vital supply of water causing the city to whither and die, apart from everything falling down. We had a nice run down to Datca under genoa in the afternoon to anchor off the town and re-store. Away from the touristy seafront a friendly Turkish restaurant with good food was found opposite a line of shops selling all types of nuts, honey and all sorts of olive oil - a land flowing with milk and honey indeed. Friday 24 Sept saw Spellbinder sailing and motor sailing to Panormitis on the Greek island of Symi. Here there is a large monastery in an enclosed bay, a very pretty anchorage but rather polluted discouraging the usual bouts of swimming to cool off. Dirsek in the Hisaronu Koreezi was the next port of call, north facing but sheltered from the strong south winds forecast. Unable to find a secure anchorage in the southeast of the bay, Spellbinder free anchored near to the shore on the south side near to a Turkish yacht with whom we struck up a friendship. Lots of swimming here as it was hot and sultry as the south winds gusted off the hilltops and swirled around the bay. A meal at the taverna ashore was enjoyed although Tricia was to subsequently regret eating the salad that may have been contaminated. On Monday 27 Sept Spellinder sailed to Keci Buku under full main and genoa. Here there is Marti marina at the entrance to the bay, but once tucked behind the island with a Byzantine fort on the west side there is little sign of habitation to be seen with lovely views of the mountains to the south. The fort of course had to be explored and the climb provided much needed exercise. On Tue 28 Sept Spellbinder motored and sailed around to the Yesilova Korfezi with Bozburun near its head. Poor Tricia now had the dog in a big way and missed the beauty of a lovely anchorage on sand near some skerries off the north end of Kizil Adasi. Bozuk Buku on the south west tip of the Bozburun peninsula was the next port of call where we dallied to recover and enjoy a walk around the ancient ruins of Loryma. This bay is a lovely spot with three tavernas on its shores all with pontoons. We chose to anchor at the head of the bay conscious of the fact that holding is indifferent and could be a problem in strong winds. From Bozuk Buku Spellbinder had a magnificent 30 mile sail to Ekincik east of Marmaris. The wind was westerly F4/5 and the boat surged along. Tricia had been promised that turtles could be seen here and so it proved although only one, perhaps two. From Ekincik tripper boats take you to the Dalyan river where the loggerhead turtles are a protected species there. We did this and had an interesting day out, but the "zoo" of tripper boats struggling to see the one turtle in evidence left one feeling rather sorry for the turtle that was held by its large shell for all to see. The previous week it was said the baby turtles had been hatching and making their perilous journey down the sand to the sea. That night we enjoyed a specially prepared dish of goat washed down with Turkish Agora wine. By now the nights and mornings were much cooler and it was easier to sleep properly. But Tricia and Peter had to get home so on Sunday 3 Oct Spellbinder anchored briefly in Turunc Buku for a last swim before entering the bay of Marmaris and securing to India pontoon in Marmaris Yacht Marine. We had a nice meal at the marina restaurant, hired a car, shopped in Marmaris and then drove to Dalaman airport to say farewell to Tricia and Peter late on 4th of October. George and Teresa will be the next crew before Spellbinder is laid up at Yacht Marine.