Friday 13th May Ormos Keri, Zakynthos
Spellbinder
Sat 14 May 2011 09:17
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Monday 9th May we allowed ourselves a slow start
from Koroni, after a trip ashore to stock up on cheese pies from the bakery,
since we only planned to travel 20 miles to Methoni. Up anchor at 1040, and off
along the south coast of the Peloponnese in a pleasant SSE force 3. . By
1130 the wind had freshened and gone into the south, ideal conditions for the
genneker, so up it went and along we bowled. Soon convinced the wind was too
good to waste, we just kept going past Methoni, and on towards Kyparissia,
another 35 miles further up the coast. The wind remained kind, and at the second
attempt we were anchored in kyparissia harbour by 1913, 51 miles in 81/2 hours,
very satisfying. The harbour mole had been extended since the pilot book
was written, but we decided to spend the night at anchor, and move
alongside in the morning. Pressure cooker chicken for supper for old times sake.
A restless night ensued, the wind got up and we
were concerned that the anchor was dragging. After breakfast we set about moving
alongside, only to find the anchor was firmly stuck. Tried all manner of
manoeuvres without success, still pretty windy so the surface was too disturbed
to see the bottom. Martin donned snorkel to take a look, but the visibility was
so poor that no firm idea of the cause could be made.Decided it was time to
seek help.We were directed towards the Coastguard office, where a charming and
helpful man telephoned around until he found a diver that could help us, but not
until the next day. By now it was 2pm, so we asked for a taverna recommendation.
Discussions with his marine police colleague, who then drove us in his police
car to the chosen spot, Paramithika. A small family run place, Mama running the
kitchen, and 2 very large sons doing the waiting, a testament to their mother's
lovely cooking! Walked off lunch by climbing up to the castle overlooking the
town, and then back for a quiet evening while we awaited help.
Wednesday morning was still, and we could see where
the chain ended, but the anchor was covered in an old tarpaulin. Tried
for a while to hook it off, but eventually decided to wait for the diver.
Giannis duly arrived on schedule at 1pm, and was soon kitted up and on the job.
After pulling the tarpaulin away he was able to manhandle the rocks off the
top of the anchor, and we were free. In alongside, and relief all
round. Plenty of interest from a French and an Irish yacht in what had
happened. Off Giannis went to ride his bike up a mountain, and we relaxed.
Ashore later for some shopping in the very non-touristy town, and then we went
back to Paramithika for supper. On the way we saw the coast guard, who was not
in his office when we called by earlier, so we were able to offer our thanks,
and a strong message of support for Giannis. As we walked back to the boat a
trawler came alongside at the end of the quay, and we went to have a look. A
stout stern trawler, with a crew of 5 or more, they were unloading enough boxes
of fish to fill a small white van. While we watched, one crew member put 3 or 4
boxes of small fish, prawns and langoustines on the quay, and it was soon
apparent these were for sale. We bought about a kilo of prawns for 2
euro.
Thursday morning we were off by 8am, heading
towards Zakynthos in a westerly direction, with the forecast of a freshening
westerly wind. Had to motor all the way, with some assistance from the mainsail,
which gave an opportunity to boil up the prawns. We came to anchor in Keri
bay just before 4pm. A lovely spot in the south of the island, just along
but out of sight and sound from the overdeveloped Laganas resort. A snug
anchorage, 499 miles from our starting point of Marmaris 22 days ago. A bit
too breezy to encourage swimming. Instead, set about making prawn risotto for
supper, which we then enjoyed in the cockpit, the first evening meal of the
trip we had not eaten below to keep warm.
Friday dawned warm and sunny, so we decided to
spend the day at Keri. Ashore in the morning to look around the village and buy
the essential cheese pies, and then walked inland to seek the ancient tar pits
mentioned in antiquity. No signs, but after a meander up a track we came across
them, more evidenced by smell than any visible presence. Back onboard,
with Anne swimming out to the boat, which encouraged the men to get in the
water too, the first day it really felt comfortable to stay in for any length of
time. Lazy afternoon, and a bit more swimming, with a meal in the cockpit
later.
Saturday morning was equally warm and settled, so
we kicked off by getting all the carpets up on deck for a clean, and washed
through the cabin floor. Up anchor at 9, and motored round to Zakynthos town,
where we had no problem in finding a space on the quay. An afternoon of clean
ship activities, in preparation for tomorrow's crew change. Anne and Martin head
back to England, to be replaced by Eric Thomson and Charles Buchanan. Last
dinner ashore this evening, to celebrate out 515 miles
together.
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