Saturday 1st March Rodney Bay, St Lucia
Spellbinder
Sat 1 Mar 2008 20:14
All went to plan from the Saintes, into Le Marin on Thursday as planned, and then all three of us across to St Lucia on the fast ferry on Friday, an impressive trip- 30 knots rather than our usual 5 or 6. From then on to the Fox Grove Inn on the windward coast of the island, convenient for the airport.George and Henry left on Saturday, and Hilary arrived on Sunday for a couple of weeks exploring Martinique with Martin.
Henry returned via the Fox Grove Inn two weeks later, arriving in Le Marin on Sunday 24th Feb loaded with goodies for the boat and news of home. After a day to sort things out, we sailed on Tuesday 26th back across the channel to St Lucia. A fairly quiet day, but with some slow moving patches of squallly rain which caused us to take in a reef. Less than 5 hours, and we anchored off Reduit beach for Henry to go ashore and complete formalities. Then,after a cup of tea, we moved across the bay to anchor off Pigeon Island. Ashore in the dinghy for sundowners and supper at the Jambe de Bois restaurant- see blog for Sunday 6 Jan. Delighted to find we did not have to land on to the beach, as the jetty by the restaurant which had been wrecked by a hurricane some years back has been rebuilt since our previous visit.The restaurant told us that this had been funded by Taiwan. We had observed Taiwan projects previously in St Vincent, and asked why their presence in these islands. The answer seems to be that each of these islands is an independant nation, with a vote at the UN, and Taiwan is seeking votes to help them be recognised by the UN. At least the Taiwan help seems to be appropriate projects that use local labour. China competes with grandiose projects which appear inappropriate to the actual local needs.Such is international politics. Having had this conversation with the lady running the restaurant, she and Hilary realised that they new each other, Jane coming originally from Wadebridge in Cornwall.Small world.
The next morning we were awoken by the noise of a cruise ship anchoring close by, and were entertained during breakfast by all the activity around the jetty as groups of passengers were ferried ashore, and then despatched on fishing, diving, bus trips and other activities. After breakfast it was over the side to inspect underwater fittings, as the log had not operated properly since leaving Le Marin, and the propellor sounded a bit out of balance.Found there had been quite a bit of weed growth around the hull fittings during the two weeks in Le Marin, probably due to being in a lagoon with low salinity and rich nutrients in the water.Cleaned off around the various openings, and also spent some time around the propellor loosening it up so the blades would fold and open easily.Then sat in the cockpit with a cup of coffee, serenaded by a steel band which was playing on the beach for what looked like a lunch time barbeque for the cruise ship.Up anchor, and a gentle sail down the coast to pick up a mooring off Anse Chastenet at tea time.Quiet evening onboard.
On Thursday morning we took the dinghy in to Anse Chastenet beach to revisit the beautiful reef, and to enjoy the excellent beach bar. Henry settled down in the shade with some killer sudokos, while Hilary and Martin swam and enjoyed the reef. Very enjoyable lunch, before motoring the couple of miles round the point back to our Christmas location, Humming Bird beach, Soufriere.We had already been greeted by our favourite boat boy, Joseph, who had spotted us the previous evening and come to say hello, so he was waiting to tie us to a tree and settle us in. Sundowners and dinner at the Humming Bird, with a lovely welcome back.
Friday morning was a walk around Soufriere, which is being smartened up for a visit by Prince Charles next week, and a visit to the botanical gardens, where we met the manager hands on dealing with a fallen tree, a man from Nottingham. It was a wet morning, and he told us the rainfall is unseasonal, and causing the ground to slip and trees to fall on the steep slopes, all due to global warming in his view.Come the afternoon it was time to take Hilary to catch her plane back home, and then we were two again, baked beans on toast and cribbage! Went ashore for a sundowner in the Humming Bird beach bar, and were fascinated by the barman's tale. He had been blinded in one eye, and through an initiative across the Caribbean islands managed by Cuba and Venezuela, he had been to Cuba for eye surgery and had his sight restored. This had cost him nothing, the doctors had visited Soufriere to assess needs, as apparently eye defects are very common through the islands. Once he had been accepted, his travel to Cuba was free, the surgery and six weeks or so recovery in hospital was free, and he was compensated for his time off work back in St Lucia until he was fit to work again. So we may hear a lot of negative things about Castro and Chavez, but this programme transforms the lives of many people like Lucius across the islands.
Saturday morning we made our farewell visit in to Soufriere to deal with formalities, and to stock up on provisions, and then rather sadly made our departure from what has become a significant hub for our visit. Enjoyed a good sail north to Rodney bay in 20-25 knots of wind, and in to anchor off Pigeon Island again. Supper planned in Jambe de Bois, before an early start across the channel to Martinique. We aim to reach Antigua in a week or so, precise itinerary not yet fixed.