The passage from Cala San Vicente, Ibiza to Cala Portals, Mallorca was made
in fine sunny weather but light winds requiring the engine for all but one
hour of the 9 hour passage on the final approach to the anchorage at Cala
Portals. The opportunity in having so much power available was taken to
recommission the watermaker in light of reports that fresh water in many
places in the Med is expensive. The bay is most attractive so two nights
were spent at anchor while the dinghy and outboard were re-commissioned and
time taken to explore the bay and visit tombs cut into the caves dating back
to Phoenician times. On Wed 6 May we sailed to Palma, Mallorca to meet Fiona
Fell, explore Palma and persuade the very helpful staff at the National Park
office to issue a visitors permit for Cabrera island at only one days notice
instead of the required three days. Cabrera was a delight and we spent two
nights in a lovely bay secured to one of fifty buoys provided by the park
authorities. Being early in the season we were given five star treatment by
the staff who gave us a personal visit to the ethnological museum and
pointed out the key features to be visited. A long walk to the Punta de
N'Ensiola lighthouse provided some glorious views and much needed exercise.
Sat 9 May saw Spellbinder on rather a dull plod into light winds on a misty,
hazy morning. The east coast of Mallorca was attractive on the way to anchor
in Porto Colom. We had expected to find a fish farm filling most of the
anchorage but were pleased to find that this had been removed. On the other
hand all the mooring buoys laid by the harbour authority were occupied. By
now it was apparent that easterly winds were going to make our passage to
Mahon, Menorca difficult so decided on a strategy of crossing to Puerto de
Ciudadela on the west of the island. This has a very narrow harbour through
which the ferries could only just squeeze and we were dismayed to find the
visitors quay cordoned off so proceeded in and found a port authority berth
near the head of the harbour. We enjoyed Ciudadela which was once the
capital of Menorca before this was moved to Mahon which we were to find was
more commercial and less well preserved. As the Pilot so rightly says,
Ciudadela is a town oozing antiquity and interest on every side. On 12 May
we left for Mahon this, in effect, involving a 360 degree course alteration
round the north of the island so difficult to get a perfect wind direction.
As it was the wind started fresh in the SE backed into the S on the way
round and certainly aided our progress. We had our first good sailing of the
cruise so far but experienced some extraordinary variations in wind speed
and direction as we progressed. At one moment we were reefed down and at the
next becalmed. The final entry to Mahon was under sail and in the evening
light the outer harbour shore line was a delightful sight with 18 century
fortifications to port and starboard, quaranteen island with its hospital
and hardly another boat on the water. Spellbinder paused in Mahon and was
sad to say goodbye to Fiona and Martin, but looked forward to the arrival of
George and Teresa for the 190 mile passage to Sardinia. In the meantime we
visited Fort Marlborough built by the British in the early 18th century, and
also Collingwood house which is now a hotel. It was good to find out more of
this great Admiral who was second in command at Trafalgar and led the van of
the attack in the Royal Sovereign. Surely his achievements have been
overlooked, dying on station not many years after the battle having not seen
his family for 6(?) years. A great family man whose loyal dog Bounce we were
to hear about at Collingwood house.
Eds note: This blog entry is posted from northern Sardinia as the author has
been lax at keeping ahead of progress. The next installment will be posted
soon. Meanwhile the fun goes on in glorious weather but too little wind.
