Friday 24th August at Figueiria da Foz
Spellbinder
Fri 24 Aug 2007 09:28
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Sailed from Baiona on Friday 17th in a light
northerly breeze. Dead downwind for 25 miles to Viana do Castelo, our
first stop in Portugal, with the wind slowly increasing as the afternoon wore
on.In to a very snug berth. Found that we had arrived at the start of a major
folk festival, with folk music and dancing, and parades. We were directed by the
marina to a restaurant, which we found full.Wandered down the road to another
little cafe, where we were welcomed with open arms, and all joined in to help us
with the language and choosing our meal. A feast of sea food and local wine all
for 26 euros for 4 of us, including free aguardente.
The next day we got stuck in to the festival, with
enthusiastic boy drumming groups, accordion bands and folkdancing
groups.
Intended to set off on Sunday, but a forecast of
strong north winds kept us there for another day of the festival. An excellent
parade, lasting over 2 hours, with local bands and dancing groups, enlivened by
floats illustrating different themes of life in the region. We were told that
this was the biggest folk festival in Portugal. Sunday night finished with a
huge fireworks display at midnight, lasting half an hour.
Fantastic.
Finally moved on at 0830 on Monday, out into a
still fresh northerly wind. Put a reef in the main and set off south at a brisk
pace.Into the marina at Leixoes by 2pm, located in a commercial harbour
effectively in the outskirts of Porto. Joined later in the afternoon by Dominic
and Jenny.
After a shopping morning to restock the boat, we
headed in to Porto. First stop the Cape Verde islands consulate, where we found
we could get visas for our proposed visit in November. Then on for a stroll
through the old centre of Porto, a world heritage site of narrow atmospheric
streets tumbling down to the river Douro.
Back into Porto on Wednesday morning to retrieve
our passports, and then on across the river to the Gaia side, where all the Port
lodges are located. Lunch in a very friendly little place, with a terrace giving
a fine view down the river, and then on to Cockburns. We were invited to wait
for 5 minutes, and then treated to an individually escorted tour by a lady who
spoke excellent English. After walking through between all the barrels storing
the tawny and ruby port we were taken down to the cellar to wander around
admiring vintage port in bottles dating back to about 1907. Fortunately no
vintage in 1944 which avoided a potential massive capital outlay for Henry
and Martin. Then on to taste white port, tawny (20 years old and very
good), and some late bottled vintage. We were joined by the marketing director,
a keen sailor, and so had a pleasant chat about the different port house styles,
port versus madeira, the port sailing barges that used to bring the wine down
the river Douro and are now keenly raced by the port houses, and other sailing
matters.A most amusing visit.Back to Leixoes on the very efficient metro, where
we were amazed to find Confianza in the marina, the catamaran which Phil and
Gill Pullan had sold earlier this year, and in which both Henry and Martin had
sailed. Said hello, and invited the new owners round for a drink. They headed
off direct to Madeira the next morning, en route for Tenerife.
We left Leixoes on Thursday morning, destination
Figueiria da Foz some 64 miles south. Blessed with a northerly wind initially
light enough to hoist the genneker, but steadily increasing through the day, so
we changed to a reefed main and poled out genoa, maintaining a brisk progress.In
to Figueiria in just under 10 hours. Ashore to a Goan restaurant, where we had a
splendid table full of curries, beer wine and whisky to finish in the company of
the owner Mr Rodrigues all for 15 euros a head.He was a great character, proud
to tell us he was 81, and all about his family and his life, having gone from
Goa to Mozambique in 1948, and then on to Portugal. A born survivor, who
attributed his healthy age to regular wine and whisky.
Friday morning is a slow start, with the excuse of
waiting for the tide. Destination today is Nazare, another 35 miles to the
south.
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