Spellbinder's Web Diary - Tuesday 20th November- at Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde islands

Tuesday 20th November- at Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde islands

Spellbinder

Tue 20 Nov 2007 13:08

Thursday 15th, we left Tarrafal at 8am. Very light wind in the harbour, but within an hour we were experiencing force 5 to 6, with a reef in the main and 6 rolls in the genoa, soon increased to 2 reefs and 8 rolls when it reached force 7.Gradually eased down, but still quite breezy when we anchored in a lovely sweeping bay off the south side of Santa Luzia island. After lunch the dinghy was launched, and a swimming party of Ros, Mike and Martin headed for the beach. Lovely sand, warm water, but once more a barren volcanic landscape. Reputedly uninhabited, but we saw two fishermen on the beach, so we did not have the whole island to ourselves.Stayed breezy through the evening, the place has a reputation for squally gusts off the hills, but we remained firmly anchored in our selected spot.

Friday morning we weighed anchor at 8.30, and set off for the twenty miles to Mindelo.A lovely breeze, and a close reach across the Santa Luzia sound, renowned for its rich fishing, hopefully our last sail to windward this side of Trinidad. In to Mindelo harbour, to find that the promised new marina does exist, although still a work in progress. Once secured, we were advised water was only available on Thursdays and Fridays, so topped up the tanks , at 2 escudos a litre, and splashed out on a fresh water wash down for the boat. No showers or toilet facilities on the marina, but facilities advertised at the Club Nautico just across the road in the old customs house building. Mike took a look, and decided to head off and find a pensao that would offer showers. Bunny and Martin braved the club, for 100 escudos nothing to complain about, and the added advantage of beer at the bar while waiting one's turn for the single, cold shower. Decided to dine at the hotel Mindelo, where Jose was scheduled to perform at 11.30. Lobster proved popular. After a post dinner meander, Mike , Ros and Martin settled down for the music, Henry and Bunny decided to give it a miss.Eventually driven out by the sheer volume of it all sometime after midnight.

Top priority Saturday morning was to find a laundry. Eventually located a friendly establishment, that would wash and dry our 72 items, ready for collection on Monday afternoon. Made a general exploration of the town, very lively fish market where we bought some tuna for supper.Took an evening walk up the hill to an old fort, which offered a fine view of the town, as the sun set at just after 6 pm, and then back via the club nautico for a beer before supper onboard.

More jobs on the boat on Sunday morning, changing the genoa for the smaller working jib, in the expectation of fresh trade winds. In the afternoon Mike and Ros set off for a nearby beach, and returned in the evening with tales of a friendly local family who had given them a lift back to town, and then invited them in to their house and plied them with drinks.Headed off to a retaurant Mike had spotted earlier, only to find it closed, so accepted the offer of a man to show us to another place round the corner. Very local ambiance, but a good meal of fish and vegetables, plus wine, all for 10 euros a head.

Monday morning Henry Mike and Ros made an early start, and caught the ferry across to the neighbouring island of Sao Antao, famed for it's spectacular scenery and verdant valleys. Bunny and Martin remained in Mindelo and passed the day in various errands. Bunny finally defeated in his efforts to add time to his Portugese purchased mobile phone, but not before valiant efforts at the local telephone company offices. Tho solution offered to his problem was to buy a local contract, which for one day remaining seemed a bit over the top. Collected the laundry, all perfectly folded and packed into our bags for us by most helpful ladies. Shopped for meat, only frozen available, and other staples, and then a quiet afternoon of postcards etc. Rendezvous with the tour party for sundowners, and then dinner ashore at the restaurant which had been closed the previous evening. Lovely setting upstairs, looking out over the harbour, but obviously aimed at tourists, this time 30 euros a head.

Today is departure day. Ashore first thing to buy bread, and then back after breakfast to buy fruit and veg at the market. Surprised to find the market closed, although assured it will open at noon. After that, lunch and then over to the fishing harbour to fill up on diesel before we finally set sail for Trinidad. 2100 miles to go, prepared for a three week passage, but hoping to make it in nearer to two. We will put a daily noon position on the blog, so our readers can follow our progress.