Tuesday 15 May 2012 - Saturday 16 June 2012 Carthagena to Gibraltar

Spellbinder
Tue 13 Nov 2012 16:45
The visit to Carthagena was much enjoyed, Martin and Eric flew home from Murcia and Henry welcomed Sandy and Jo Tyndale-Biscoe onboard for the cruise along the Costas to Gibraltar. It was on the way to the harbour at Garrucha that Spellbinder recorded 20,000 miles on the log. This was toasted with a tot of rum as the boat motored in a light easterly zephyr to the southwest. We had originally planned to anchor in the north of Garrucha harbour but had been told by a fellow yachtsman that a new marina was under construction there. On arrival this gave the impression of an abandoned project with pontoons in place but access gates shut and locked - perhaps a victim of the recession that has followed the 2008 financial crash. A ship was being loaded with limestone on the Dique de Levante from a huge pile of the material on the jetty. With a south facing harbour entrance it was easy to see that a southerly blow would not only cover the new marina with limestone dust but also bring in a swell that would be awkward. Spellbinder berthed in the old marina in the northwest of the harbour and was given a friendly welcome. An evening meal was enjoyed at the small but welcoming marina restaurant.
The next day, Wednesday 16 May, we pushed on to round Cabo de Gata where we expected to encounter an east going stream that can be strong at times. We were also encouraged to start early by a forecast predicting the strong northerly to east northeast winds were going to turn strong westerly the next day. In the event an exhilarating sail was enjoyed down the coast to the Cape that became a real surfing experience in rough seas as the Cabo de Gata was rounded. It was F6/7 and wind against tide made it exciting. West of the Cape we found some lee but a brisk following wind soon found Spellbinder berthed in Aquadulce to the west of Almeira.
The strong westerlies duly arrived the next day and after a short discussion it was decided to surrender to the weather and take a tour by hire car up into the Sierra Nevada and visit Granada. The foothills of the mountains were a delight in spring and accommodation was found in the lovely spa town of Lanjaron where the Spanish flock to take the waters. There was a bee museum and aqua museum and from here a visit to Grenada and the Alhambra were enjoyed. The weather was generally cool and overcast as the west wind blew, and on the return route to Aquadulce driving south along a winding ridge to La Rabita we encountered mist, hail and rain. It was Sunday 20 May.
After 5 days the strong westerlies subsided and the wind swung back into the easterly sector. It was a short motor-sail to Almerimar on a bright sunny morning with heavy dew on the deck. Here we successfully met up with General John Anderson, a retired Ghurka and very active in their support and welfare. It was good to have the Army onboard. The next day was a rather tedious motor, starting on a still, misty morning over a smooth sea. There was some gentle sailing in the last hour and the backdrop of the snow covered Sierra Nevada was memorable. The destination was an anchorage off a beach to the east end of the Ensenada de los Berengueles. Weighing anchor the next morning Spellbinder had to manoeuvre around a military-looking swimmer in the water, but we didn't think it was anything to do with John! So, it was then on to Caleta de Velez on a gentle day for sailing with genoa boomed out and all was well with the world. Spellbinder anchored west of the harbour finding some protection from a slight swell off the breakwater. A dinghy run-ashore for a meal was fun, the only regret being that a young lady dining on her own was not invited to join us. As morphic resonance was being much discussed a poem was penned in her honour.
There was a serious lack of wind on Friday 25 May for the motor to the marina at Benalmadena which is southwest of Malaga. Here we were entertained most generously by Antonio Vallecillo, a university lecturer and friend of Jo and Sandy. Malaga was visited and found to be a delightful city with its Picasso museum and Alcazaba, the latter a mini version of the Alhambra at Granada. Malaga has cleverly diverted the mass tourists along the coast to the likes of Torremolinos.
Bidding farewell to John, Spellbinder sailed early on the morning of Sunday 27 May after a windy night with much moaning in the rigging. There was one reef in the main as Benalmadena was left behind en route to Estepona. The wind was anything from northwest to southwest so Spellbinder beat on a smoothish sea in a F3/4. Estepona marina was horribly expensive and as Gibraltar was beckoning Spellbinder was soon on her way. The rock of Gibraltar was seen floating on a layer of mist in a dead calm and was a fine sight with the sun behind us. Threading our way through the mass of ships anchored to the east and west of the point, Europa Point was passed and Spellbinder made her way to the newish Spanish marina at La Linea - the Alcaidesa marina. From here, after a visit to the Rock and the old military Lines at La Linea, Sandy and Jo flew home and Henry awaited the arrival of the Ramage family, John, Karen and Bonny. On Monday 4 June, the Queen's Diamond Jubilee holiday, Spellbinder sailed for the Spanish enclave of Ceuta across the Strait of Gibraltar. It was a brisk sail, bumpy at times with the currents swirling everywhere as we reached across to North Africa. There was much sightseeing in Ceuta to the Castle, Pillars of Hercules (?), Arab baths, and John and Henry crossed the border into Morocco where Mohammed took charge of us and took us on a tour of Tetouan and its famous Souk. It was a truly fascinating place but we were lucky to get away without spending too much money on carpets! The return to La Linea across the Strait was uneventful with a mixture of sailing and motoring. The Rock was wreathed in mist again but the sun shone and we managed to dodge the many ships transitting the Straits. The Ramages visited the Rock and we hired a car to go to Seville for a visit and put the family on a flight back to the UK. Seville was interesting but very hot. Henry subsequently took the car to visit harbours and marinas for information to update the Atlantic Spain and Portugal Pilot book. These included the RCN marina at Seville, Chipiona, Barbate, Rota and Puerto Sherry before visiting windy Tarifa point and returning to La Linea. Having secured Spellbinder in the Alcaidesa marina, Henry flew home on 16 June, returning on 20 August to exit the Mediterranean and make passage to Lagos in Portugal for the winter.