Friday 24th August at Figueiria da Foz

Spellbinder
Fri 24 Aug 2007 09:28
Sailed from Baiona on Friday 17th in a light northerly breeze. Dead downwind  for 25 miles to Viana do Castelo, our first stop in Portugal, with the wind slowly increasing as the afternoon wore on.In to a very snug berth. Found that we had arrived at the start of a major folk festival, with folk music and dancing, and parades. We were directed by the marina to a restaurant, which we found full.Wandered down the road to another little cafe, where we were welcomed with open arms, and all joined in to help us with the language and choosing our meal. A feast of sea food and local wine all for 26 euros for 4 of us, including free aguardente.
The next day we got stuck in to the festival, with enthusiastic boy drumming groups, accordion bands and folkdancing groups.
Intended to set off on Sunday, but a forecast of strong north winds kept us there for another day of the festival. An excellent parade, lasting over 2 hours, with local bands and dancing groups, enlivened by floats illustrating different themes of life in the region. We were told that this was the biggest folk festival in Portugal. Sunday night finished with a huge fireworks display at midnight, lasting half an hour. Fantastic.
Finally moved on at 0830 on Monday, out into a still fresh northerly wind. Put a reef in the main and set off south at a brisk pace.Into the marina at Leixoes by 2pm, located in a commercial harbour effectively in the outskirts of Porto. Joined later in the afternoon by Dominic and Jenny.
After a shopping morning to restock the boat, we headed in to Porto. First stop the Cape Verde islands consulate, where we found we could get visas for our proposed visit in November. Then on for a stroll through the old centre of Porto, a world heritage site of narrow atmospheric streets tumbling down to the river Douro.
Back into Porto on Wednesday morning to retrieve our passports, and then on across the river to the Gaia side, where all the Port lodges are located. Lunch in a very friendly little place, with a terrace giving a fine view down the river, and then on to Cockburns. We were invited to wait for 5 minutes, and then treated to an individually escorted tour by a lady who spoke excellent English. After walking through between all the barrels storing the tawny and ruby port we were taken down to the cellar to wander around admiring vintage port in bottles dating back to about 1907. Fortunately no vintage in 1944 which avoided a potential massive capital outlay for Henry and Martin. Then on to taste white port, tawny  (20 years old and very good), and some late bottled vintage. We were joined by the marketing director, a keen sailor, and so had a pleasant chat about the different port house styles, port versus madeira, the port sailing barges that used to bring the wine down the river Douro and are now keenly raced by the port houses, and other sailing matters.A most amusing visit.Back to Leixoes on the very efficient metro, where we were amazed to find Confianza in the marina, the catamaran which Phil and Gill Pullan had sold earlier this year, and in which both Henry and Martin had sailed. Said hello, and invited the new owners round for a drink. They headed off direct to Madeira the next morning, en route for Tenerife.
We left Leixoes on Thursday morning, destination Figueiria da Foz some 64 miles south. Blessed with a northerly wind initially light enough to hoist the genneker, but steadily increasing through the day, so we changed to a reefed main and poled out genoa, maintaining a brisk progress.In to Figueiria in just under 10 hours. Ashore to a Goan restaurant, where we had a splendid table full of curries, beer wine and whisky to finish in the company of the owner Mr Rodrigues all for 15 euros a head.He was a great character, proud to tell us he was 81, and all about his family and his life, having gone from Goa to Mozambique in 1948, and then on to Portugal. A born survivor, who attributed his healthy age to regular wine and whisky.
Friday morning is a slow start, with the excuse of waiting for the tide. Destination today is Nazare, another 35 miles to the south.