Thursday 16th August at Baiona
Spellbinder
Thu 16 Aug 2007 22:28
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We spent an extra day at Portosin on Wed 8th. Eric
and Martin hired bikes for the day and set off for a visit to an iron age fort a
few miles along the coast. Whether through bravado or just foolishness, this
developed into a marathon ride up over a 1000ft pass, and half way down the
other side to view a waterfall, all in blazing sunshine. There is life in the
old dogs, but not much that evening!
Set off in a brisk north easterly wind on Thursday
morning, and were soon joined by a pod of dolphins, who enjoyed playing in our
bow wave, and seemed fascinated by Eric serenading them on his harmonica.And so
on round from the Ria de Muros and in to the Ria de Arousa, where we secured at
the marina in Villagarcia.Invited to drinks by our neighbours Godfrey and
Christine in Gemini Dreamer, and then ashore for dinner in the marina
restaurant, where we met and chatted to Andy and Jinti Wright-Boycott from
Selkie Dancer. All seem captivated by the Galician rias.
The next morning we moved 5 miles down the ria to
Vilanova, where we were given a great welcome by the marina manager Paco. Not
only was he there to take our lines and introduce himself to us, but he also
took us in his car to Cambados, which we had told him we wished to visit.
A lovely town, the centre of the Rias Baixas wine region, and it just happened
to be having a wine and sea food festival. Open air stalls with all sorts of
shell fish, the product of the rias.Perfect.
Saturday 11th dawned foggy, so we spent the
morning around Vilanova. Attracted by the sound of a brass band, we followed the
local musicians as they marched around the town, accompanied by a local
supporter who released rockets with tremendous bangs every few minutes.
Then discovered a rival band with bagpipes and drums also marching around. What
entertainment. Finally set sail after lunch, and headed around to the next ria
south, Ria de Pontevedra.Made our way up to the head of the ria, past the
Spanish Naval College, and anchored off Combarro. insufficient energy to get the
dinghy out, so a quiet evening onboard.
On Sunday morning we decided to take advantage of
the settled weather and headed out for the Isla de Ons at the mouth of the ria.
Made our way cautiously into a small bay on the southern tip of the island and
anchored off what seemed to be an inaccessible bay from the land side. We were
half way ashore in the dinghy when a national park boat appeared and told us it
was a nature reserve and we were not allowed to
land. Most annoying as we could see there were two people on the beach. So
settled for an evening onboard. Woke up the next morning to find several fishing
boats at work around us, but managed to depart without upsetting them or getting
tangled in their nets.
We made our way south on Monday morning to the
Islas Cies, off the entrance to the Ria de Vigo, where we anchored in
the Playa de Roda. Another nature reserve, but here ferries were landing
visitors, and there were a number of yachts at anchor. So we rowed ashore in the
dinghy, and set off for a walk. Climbed up a track to a lighthouse which gave
magnificent views up and down the coast. Very taken by the tameness of the wild
life, with young gulls squeaking to be fed by their parents, and not bothered by
us passing close by, and a rabbit who also just sat and watched us. Also by the
complete lack of any litter, despite the number of visitors, a truly lovely wild
spot.
Woke up on Tuesday morning to find the weather had
changed, with a fresh south westerly wind which made the anchorage
uncomfortable. Watched while an adjacent yacht dragged anchor and became
entangled with his neighbour, and decided to leave after breakfast.Set off with
two reefs in the main, and enjoyed a brisk sail for the 9 miles it took to get
to Baiona, where we were assisted to a very good berth in the marina by a
friendly Dutch yacht.Ashore in the evening to explore the old town, and for a
very good dinner courtesy of Eric, followed by some hearty singing and harmonica
playing onboard.
A slightly subdued crew set off the next morning to
visit the replica of the Pinta, the first ship to reach Spain from Christopher
Columbus' trip in March 1493. Duly impressed by what they achieved,
especially the return trip across the Atlantic in the middle of winter.
Certainly puts our little jaunt in perspective.Then set off for a walk around
the fortifications, within which is situated a fine Parador hotel. Decided to
give Eric lunch in the taverna there, seated in the window with
magnificent views back up the coast we had all just enjoyed, to send him on
his way back to Scotland. He departed on the 5 o'clock bus to Vigo, and
then on by train to Santiago for his return flight.
Thursday 16th, today, we have beeen joined by
Patricia and Peter, who are coming with us for the next stage of our journey
south along the coast of Portugal, which starts
tomorrow.
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