Milos Sunday 1st May

Spellbinder
Sun 1 May 2011 06:57
The wind had eased enough by Monday for us to set off on our next leg to Astypalia, although neighbouring boats were saying it was too windy for heading west. We hoisted sail just outside the harbour, with one reef in the main, just to be seen, and off we went. A force 4 gave us good progress, and Henry set to on getting the water maker going again after its winter shut down. It all burst into life with no problems. A rising wind persuaded us to put some rolls in the genoa, and we forged along on a close reach in force 4 or 5, occasionally gusting 6, with a bit of a sea but still we were logging between 7 and 8 knots, a fast and exciting sail. Things smoothed down once we got under the lee of Astypalia, and we made our way into a recently extended harbour at the main town of Skala.No other yachts in the harbour, so we picked ourselves a sheltered alongside berth. A little later a Benteau 52 arrived from Nisyros, crewed by husband, reluctant sailing wife and two small daughters, followed by an Australian yacht. Being April 25th, the next event was tea and very fine birthday cake for Martin to blow out all the candles We stepped ashore to climb up the hill to an extensive 13th century Venetian castle, all very picturesque. Back onboard for Greek champagne ( very good ) and then we followed a local recommendation to a taverna where the crew treated Martin to a very tasty supper.
 
Given the weather trends we decided to keep north, and rather than heading for Santorini, we set off under engine towards Ios, motoring in very light winds, and using the engine running to make lots of water, good day for Henry. Just as we finished a fine lunch around the cockpit table the wind sprang up. Up sails and we ere soon doing 7 or 8 knots in fresh north easterly breeze. Around the southern tip of Ios, and blasted up the west coast until it was time to drop the sails off Mylopotomas bay, and motor in to anchor. Still plenty of wind gusting down the hills, but the anchor held, so we enjoyed sundowners and supper onboard, before a rather noisy night.
 
The next morning started cool, cloudy, rainy and windy. Much debate on how best to re-unite Ros with husband Charles, in Santorini, and whether to wait another day before risking Ros and her suitcase in the dinghy to the shore. Things calmed down after breakfast, and a succesful landing was made so that Henry and Ros could take the bus over to the ferry port at Yialos, and Ros caught a direct ferry to Santorini. Henry back onboard for lunch, and the we all went ashore in the afternoon to take the bus over to Yialos, and walk up around the picturesque Hora, before buying bread from a very chatty baker. Ios is non stop party central in the season, and he told us he kept his bakery shop open 24 hours a day to catch the revellers.Fortunately all very off season and sedate for our visit. Back onboard for supper.
 
Thursday morning saw us underway by 8am, heading for Sifnos, and we were soon sailing in northerly force 4 on another cloudy and cool morning. A frshening breeze had us putting in a reef and some rolls in the genoa by 9.30, but with the wind going round into the north east we made fine progress, covering 33 miles in 4 1/2 hours, speedy stuff for Spellbinder. As we approached Sifnos we ran into a squally rain shower, with gusts to force 6, and a few minutes of torrential rain which reduced visibility to a couple of hundred metres. Round the south of the island, and into a very sheltered bay, with a small fishing village of Vathy. Cold enough to merit soup for lunch, plus a little warming red wine before a siesta. Ashore in the dinghy to walk round the little village, now with an upmarket hotel just along the beach. A glass of ouzo in a beach front bar, where the ladies were all getting excited about the impending Royal wedding, before returnoing onboard  for supper and continuing ferocious Chase the Lady.
 
Fridays plan was to take the bus to the old villages in the centre of the island for a walk, and look for a taverna with a tv. A helpful tourist office in Apollonia pointed us off on an old donkey trail to the ancient settlement of Kastro, to work up an appetite for lunch. We missed one of the signs, and had an excursion up a track with lovely wild flowers which eventually turned into a dead end. Back towards Artemonas, our lunch destination, spotting the missed turning on our way back. There we found a quaint taverna, no tv but very good local cooking, so we toasted the happy couple in Retsina. Back on the 4 pm bus, and tempted by the first real hint of warmth went in for a swim for Martin to christen his new shorts. Very brief, the swim, not the shorts.
 
Saturday dawned clear and sunny, but with virtually no wind. Got going at 8.30, with breakfast underway as we motored over the 22 miles to Milos, and secured stern to the quay in the main port of Adhamas. Warm and sunny, at last! Our next obstacle is a 66 mile passage to Monemvasia in the south of the Peloponese, so after lunch we sought out an internet cafe for weather forecasts to help us make our plans. Tuesday looks the best of a rather unsettled outlook, giving us 2 days for the many delights on offer in Milos. Supper ashore in a taverna across the quay, and then a rather disturbed night with noise from ashore, and a lot of wavelets slapping on the hull. Sunday, being May day, means a total shut down here, so we planned a walk up to the old town and the ruins of ancient Melos, with maybe a chance to find the missing arms of Venus. However the wind came up after breakfast, blowing us onto the quay, and the anchor started to drag, so an emergency departure ensued, fortunately no harm done. We are now at anchor, much more comfortable, and having a quiet day. Aim to take the dinghy in tomorrow, and explore some of the sights, before an early departure on Tuesday
 
Photos to follow when wi fi next available.