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Date: 14 Apr 2008 15:21:02
Title: Monday 14th April Leinster Bay, St John, USVI
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Marjorie and Henry set off first thing last Monday morning from Soper's Hole to find the dental clinic recommended by a helpful man in Cane Garden Bay, who had made preliminary arrangements and phoned them through on Sunday. All went well, excellent treatment, and back onboard by lunch time. A sunny day, after a period of unsettled and showery weather, so after lunch Marjorie and Martin walked over to Smuggler's cove for a swim from a lovely coral sand beach.
Tuesday we set off for St Croix, with an easterly force 5, and a rather lumpy sea, cloudy again, with some rain showers. We covered the 42 miles in 7 hours, and anchored in rather shallow water inside the reef off Chritiansted, from where Henry went ashore in the dinghy to take a look at the marina. All looked a bit unwelcoming, very few visiting yachts in evidence, and mainly motor boats in the marina. Soon back to report an alongside berth was available, so in we went. Next item was customs and immigration, so off we all trooped to the office just by the adjacent ferry terminal, a little apprehensive as to how our visas would be received. With great suspicion! Phone calls made to higher authority, the 4 staff in the office discussed the matter between themselves at length, and one of the officials, who did not speak to us, looked at us as though he would like to set the dogs on us. After an uncomfortable wait, forms and passports were stamped, and we were in. Back on board for a cup of tea, and general relief all round. Marjorie walked round to the nearby supermarket, and came back with some first class US steak, everything seemingly imported, including fruit and veg. We are really missing the local tropical fruits which were so freely available in the Windward and Leeward islands.
The next morning the guide book promised a Wednesday market in the town, so M and M set off to shop for locally sourced provisions, while Henry got on with boat chores. False hopes, no market, but we walked round and admired the lovely, well preserved Danish architecture of Christiansted, bumping into Henry on the way who was on a quest for a chandlery. Back for lunch at the marina cafe, and decided we needed another day to really have a good look at the historic sights. Domestic afternoon, and dinner onboard.
Thursday we started off at the fort, very well restored and run by the US National Park Service, with a very informative self guided tour brochure, supported by some excellent leaflets about the local history. All extremely well done, the benefit of a wealthy nation which can resource looking after the historic buildings, unlike the poorer islands to the south. Having covered the main relics of the 18th century port, we set off for a wander in the town, and a cup of coffee. Very chatty locals, and so on to lunch in a little French cafe, after having secured some duty free rum bargains at one of the gift stores. All very quiet, not so many tourists because of the US economic downturn, and every tourist shop was advertising sales. Went into one shop that had lovely furniture outside, Henry fancied one of the rocking chairs - investment for his old age? The owner explained that he did not export, his business was focussed on furnishing the homes on the island, and with the wealth that flows in that was clearly better than the cruise ship tourist dollar. His current project was outfitting a 7 bed 7 bath home being built, 3 months work for him. Overall impression of St Croix was very good, after the shaky start, and so we decided to head next the St John, also USVI.
Friday morning we topped up with cheap US diesel before setting off in a pleasant north easterly breeze towards St John. Close hauled all the way, but the sea had gone down since Tuesday, so we made good progress on a lovely sunny day, and rounded the east end of St John by 4pm, observing over 30 boats in the bay at the west end of Norman island (BVI). Sailed west along the Francis Drake channel, and in to Leinster bay, where we delighted to find an absolutely beautiful bay, very sheltered, with moorings provided by the US National Park service, and only half a dozen yachts. Now fully convinced that the BVI are swamped by the hordes of charter yachts, while the US side is not readily accessible to the charter boats because of the entry complications, and therefore offers a much more attractive cruising ground. Shortly after we had arrived, Peter came over in his dinghy from Windsong, a neighbouring British boat, to say hello. He and Tricia have been cruising their Malo 41 in the Caribbean for six years, and they were equally convinced of the merits of the USVI against the British side.
Saturday morning we dinghied ashore, and set off on the old Danish road along the shore, restored as a hiking trail by the Park Service, to visit the ruins of the Annaberg Plantation, a sugar estate dating from 1733. Once again, very well looked after, with explanatory signs, the extent of the factory buildings being a striking indication of the enormous wealth that was generated from the sugar plantations. Fabulous views across the Francis Drake channel, and the Virgin Islands, a most wonderful land and seascape, with the startling blue colours of the water over the coral shallows. Continued a little further along the trail, to complete a loop around a lagoon behind Francis bay, through the mangrove. A lovely sunny day, so back for lunch, and then a swim around the reef off Watermelon Cay, close to the boat to see the fish and corals. No need to swim to see the turtles, they come and swim round the boat. A really perfect spot, the evening rounded off by cards, Black Maria works particularly well with three players, and so is the current favourite. Marjorie claims not to have played before, but still keeps beating us.
The guide book mentioned a Sunday jazz brunch at Coral Bay, a couple of miles from Leinster bay, so on Sunday morning we set off along the old Danish road, the opposite direction from Saturday. Up the hill to the ruins of the Plantation house, built where the owner could see all four of his plantations, including Annaberg, and with absolutely breathtaking views. Then on for what proved to be a stiff climb over a ridge and down to Coral Bay. A good hour and a half on a sunny morning, glad to find a bar for refreshment. Found there was still some way to go to our destination, Miss Lucy's, so were relieved to find the buses run on Sundays. Paid our dollar and took the bus for the remaining rather hilly mile and a half. Miss Lucy's was just perfect, we secured a table under the shade at the waters edge, and enjoyed lobster benedict while listening to a very good jazz duo. The bus back turned up shortly after the band stopped playing, and so for another dollar we rode up to the crest of the ridge, giving a downhill walk back to Leinster bay. Very chatty group of young Americans on the beach next to our dinghy, they asked where we from, and Dale was very interested to hear Martin lived in Cornwall, as his family originated from Camborne, and they had been over three years ago. Back onboard for Sunday afternoon tea, and then back into the beach to snorkel and watch the turtles feeding on the sea grass beds close to the beach. Henry stuck to paddling, and was rewarded with a close view of a ray that was swimming up and down in the shallows. And so another lovely day, decided to remain within the USVI until we have to be back in Tortolla on Thursday for our next crew change.
Monday we are remaining in Leinster bay for pottering, and practising man overboard recovery while we still have the benefits of warm water, to be followed by some more snorkelling.
More photos next weekend.

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