Monday 10th March English Harbour, Antigua
Spellbinder
Mon 10 Mar 2008 13:03
Off soon after daylight the next morning, and motor sailed up close to the island until clear at the top, thus keeping as far upwind and tide as possible.Then a gusty sail close hauled across the channel to Dominica, before making our way up the lee side to Prince Rupert Bay in the north of the island.The steep volcanic mountains of Dominica rise up to 4,700 feet, giving rise to very squally gusts, and quite a lot of rain - a rather daunting feel to the place.Greeted by the inevitable boat boys when we arrived, we asked for Albert, who had helped us on our earlier visit, and were told he was on the shore.Went to pick up one of the excellent mooring buoys provided for visitors, and soon after the boat we had talked to re-appeared with Albert onboard. He explained his boat was out for the day. Most impresssed by their co-operative spirit. Agreed for Albert to come back in the morning.
Tuesday we spent exploring around Prince Rupert Bay. First in to Portsmouth in Albert's boat, to complete immigration, and a wander round the town. Then Albert took us on a tour of the Indian River, a preserved area with jungle up to the waters edge, and surrounded by swamp. Albert was an excellent guide, and we learnt much from him, and were able to reward him with a rum and coconut punch at a river side bar in the jungle. He then sweet talked a second one out of the bar girl, seemed a bit of a local charmer. Still fit enough to row us back down the river - no engines allowed to preserve the peace. Pointed out an area that was used as a setting in one of the Pirates of the Caribbean films, we are going to have to see these films at some point. Back onboard for lunch, and then took the dinghy across to Fort Shirley on the north of the bay, a very extensive fort, once with a garrison of 600, built in the late 1700's. Much restoration has been done, and it is all very well presented, and gives splendid views across the bay, and from the hill top north to the Saintes and Guadeloupe. The garrison would have had a grandstand view of the battle of the Saintes. Left the dinghy at the large jetty constructed for the cruise ships, and had an interesting chat to the guard on our way back. Both he and Albert had much to say on the drugs problem, which plagues the region.
Wednesday we made a leisurely start for the 25 miles to Marie Galante, dodging the rain and squalls until we were clear of Dominica, and then having a favourable south easterly wind which enabled us to get up to the east without too much effort. Arrived at Grand Bourg, the capital, to find very little in the way of facilities for visiting yachts, the two main piers in the harbour given over to the high speed interisland ferries, and not much space to anchor. Spotted a vacant mooring buoy, but had some difficulty picking it up, eventually loosing the boat hook over the side.Decided to drop anchor and lower the dinghy to recover the boat hook, which was floating within the harbour. Just completed all of that, and heading back in the dinghy when we spotted a ferry zooming towards the harbour, and we were anchored off the pier. Hasty up anchor, and scampered clear.Then finally secured ourselves to the buoy.Decided to go ashore to complete immigration, with the thought of moving on up the coast to seek a more welcoming spot.However Henry received a great welcome ashore, and we were told the mooring buoy was very secure, and available for us to use as the owner was off fishing in Guyana for a few weeks. Ashore later for a sundowner at a waterfront bar, run by a frenchman from Dunkirk, very friendly, and then supper at a very pretty little restaurant, good food but at french prices.
The next morning we rented bicycles, arranged by a very helpful lady in the tourist office, and set off to see some sights, Marie Galante having the great advantage of being relatively flat. Visited the ruins of a magnificent sugar plantation, Chateau Murat, worked by over 300 slaves in the 1830's. A very charming man in the onsite museum and library answered our questions, and chatted about local history. Guadeloupe, and Marie Galante, were under the Vichy French in the war, and he told us that the free French had made their base across in Dominica. All very friendly and welcoming, tolerant of our halting French, and all free. Back on the bikes and on to Distillerie Bielle. Wonderfully haphazard sort of place, you could just wander round and see the arrangements for crushing the cane, fermenting the juice, and then distilling the rum. Harvest not yet started, so just maintenance work. Then to the all important tasting, either rocket fuel white rum, or cask aged for various lengths of time. Tasted the very expensive old rums, but bought the very modestly priced rocket fuel, plus some cane syrup, necessary components for punch. Back on the bikes, but were soon engulfed in a sobering downpour of rain, which had us sheltering for nearly an hour before we could complete our tour back along the coast road past lovely beaches.Very taken by the island, it would be a lovely place to spend a relaxing week.On our way back out in the dinghy we were passed by a fishing boat returning with a magnificent marlin hanging out over the side. Back ashore in time to admire the head and tail, and buy a slice out of the middle. Very good supper.
Friday's challenge was to get around the south eastern tip of Guadeloupe, and cover nearly 70 miles to round the north eastern tip and back south to Port Louis under the shelter of the island.The wind was ENE force 5 or 6, and with quite a big sea running once we were clear of Marie Galante, so eventually we resorted to motor sailing to push us on through the waves, and we managed to round the point with only one tack after nearly six hours on the wind. With some relief we freed off, and went flying north off the coast of Guadeloupe, logging 30 miles in 3 1/2 hours.Gybed round the north point, and with some relief headed south into the huge bay between the butterfly wings of the island. All quickly settled down, and positively tranquil by the time we reached Port Louis.Neither paper or electronic chart was up to date, but the pilot showed the new harbour, recently constructed with EU funds of course,and also gave a warning of silting in the entrance, so we anchored outside in the shelter of the wall. Soon approached by a fishing boat, most friendly, who assured us there was sufficient water to get in to the harbour, and was highly amused by our reply that we would not move as it was time for rum. Sundowner and more marlin before a welcome early night.
Saturday morning we headed into the village. Nobody at the customs post, but a friendly lady said there would be someone around at noon. Pottered around, a pretty spot, with a good beach, but little tourist development. Found an internet service at a stationery shop, and then enjoyed a coffee at the bakery, surrounded by the overflow from the adjacent betting shop, all following the racing from France on the TV. Back to customs at noon, where the young frenchman confesssed he was new and could not find the forms, and could we come back at 8pm. Off for a creole lunch on the beachfront, and back on board for a swim and siesta. Ashore again in the evening, to find three customs men, two from metropolitan France, very friendly, one hailed from Haut Savoie. They were on detached service, part of the effort against the drugs trade, as Guadeloupe offers a gateway into Europe from the Caribbean for the drug runners.Not very used to dealing with yacht clearances! Still very helpful, and an interesting insight to what goes on.We had previously observed a lot of soldiers conducting some sort of exercise on Marie Galante, with two French warships anchored off, so probably all connected to the counter drugs activities.
Off again on Sunday morning, for the 36 miles north to Antigua. Very favourable east wind at around 15 knots, and not too much sea running, so we enjoyed a glorious sail in lovely weather, arriving at the entrance to English Harbour at 1300. In to secure in the marina in Nelson's Dockyard, full of reminiscences of our previous visit in March 1963.The historic buildings have been very well preserved and put to use, and this is now a very smart marina with some seriously large yachts tied up.After settling ourselves in, took a taxi up to Shirley Heights, overlooking the bay, to enjoy the Sunday evening entertainment of a tremendous steel band, and a barbecue.
Today is domestics, boat cleaning and laundry, and an opportunity to post some more photos of our exploits, all being well, while we wait for Charles and Ros Britton to join us tomorrow.