Monday 28th January Malgretout Beach, Soufriere, St Lucia

Spellbinder
Mon 28 Jan 2008 20:48
Friday was all we could have hoped. The wind and sea were down, the sun was shining, and so after breakfast off we went in the dinghy. Out to the horseshoe reef, where we picked up one of the dinghy moorings, and then got to snorkel on the reef. Clear water, allowing us to admire all the brightly coloured fish, corals and sponges, a magical experience. Good enough to tempt Henry into the water for the second time this trip! After we had our fill, visiting several sections of the reef, back onboard for a late coffee. In the afternoon we took the dinghy over to Jamesby island, one of the 5 uninhabited islands in the Cays, where we climbed the hill for wonderful views across the reef. Also sighted an iguana sunbathing on a bush. Photos to follow. Landed on Petit Bateau for more views, before returning onboard. Cabaret provided by a French boat which came in to the thick of the anchored group of boats,and then dropped their anchor, which then dragged and hooked up the anchor of our neighbour, an elegant English boat named Forever. The two of them disappeared down wind in considerable confusion. When Forever finally got re-secured he commented to us that there had not been a word of apology.
Saturday morning we set off north to Bequia, starting our upwind passage back to the north of St Lucia in preparation for Charles' departure.We were blessed with a wind more in the east than the expected north east, and fairly flat sea, and we were soon flying along. So the obvious thing seemed to be to keep going, and we sailed past Bequia and on to Wallilabou Bay on St Vincent. 34 miles to windward in under 7 hours of exhilirating sailing, the best so far in the Caribbean. Fascinated by the wind and tidal effects between the islands, the reputed constant west going tidal stream is far from the truth, and we picked up some very favourable tide to complement the wind. In to a mooring off the restaurant in the bay before 3pm, time for Henry and Charles to walk the mile to complete immigration at the police station, and then supper on the film set ( Pirates of the Caribbean if you were not paying attention 3 weeks back). Met a delightful chatty French crew of the yacht Amadeus, based out of Martinique, who invited us to look them up for local advice when we get there.
Off again on Sunday morning for the next leg up to St Lucia. Once again blessed with a splendid easterly wind, and slight seas, so we got across the channel between the islands in fine style, with some favourable tide under us, and a very useful wind shift round the south of St Lucia which carried us up to our destination, Soufriere. Picked up a mooring buoy at 3pm, another 36 windward miles in 7 hours. Ashore to check in, and then sundowners onboard while we admired an alternative version of sailing in the Caribbean, a large cruise ship topped off with a rather incongruous set of automatic furling sails which came into the bay, photo to follow.
Monday morning we went into the town for shopping, postcards, and internet, before returning to the Humming bird for old times sake, and for Henry to buy a piece of their batik. Greeted by Joseph, the boat boy and purveyor of Christmas fish, like long lost friends. Back onboard to move across the bay to our present position off the Harmony Restaurant, so we could walk up the hill and enjoy the volcanic hot spring baths. On the way back down the hill we saw a guy hooking mangoes off a tree. Went over to ask if we could buy some, which he agreed, but in choosing them he described the degrees of ripeness in rather technical terms. What we had taken to be a local lad turned out to be a man who had studied agriculture for five years at university in Cuba, and gone on to do a Masters in Jamaica. Now working for the St Lucia government on agricultural diversification, required after the virtual collapse of the banana trade. Hopes to persuade farmers to provide high value produce for the hotel trade, starting with pineapples. A fascinating and humbling insight to local talent, and problems - some of them inflicted by changes close to home for us, the traditional market for their excellent bananas.
Onwards tomorrow to Rodney Bay marina in the north of the island, for our crew change on Thursday.