Monday 14th January- at Bequia

Spellbinder
Mon 14 Jan 2008 23:27
Well, we managed our sundowners at the Young Island hotel, fine planters punch for less than a pint of beer at home, and even had a swim off the beach. Then off on Thursday morning, leaving at 7am to head north up the windward side of St Vincent in a light force 2-3 breeze from the east. Needed some motor assistance, but much enjoyed the views of the windward coast, and a reasonably docile passage across the sound to St Lucia, which had been much rougher when we crossed it before Christmas. So to anchor at Vieux Fort at 3.30 in the afternoon.
Ashore the next morning, Friday, for Henry to clear customs and immigration, while Martin dealt with shopping and Laundry. Met for lunch at the Old Plantation Yard, where we were shown the old charcoal fuelled cooking pots, and had the contents described. Resisted the "Bouillon", a local delicacy, when informed that it contained pig snout and tail , and went for the Creole chicken. Delicious, and the cook went to great trouble to serve us all the local staples, various root vegetables, and extol at length the benefits of wild yam when boiled and used to make a drink which deals with the inability to urinate. Some relief that this might absolve us of the need to apply a catheter to an ailing crew member ( or crew's member). Back on board for a siesta to recover from all the excitement.
Saturday morning stocked up on fruit and veg at the local street market, all the ladies incredibly helpful, and keen to make sure we got what we wanted, and were not done down by anyone. One lady told us her son was in the British army, just back from Iraq and soon to go to Ireland. Very well informed, and quite thought provoking. Then to the fish market, where one of the boat boys helped us buy a splendid kingfish strait from the fisherman. A magnificent 4 lb fish for less than £4, Just finished the second meal for 3 from it, delicious. Saturday afternoon doing internet and supermarket shopping, then to a beach bar to watch the kite boarders perform, before going on to the airport to meet Charles. He arrived on time, and we took him back onboard in the dinghy through an evening downpour, what a welcome for his first time in the tropics. Kingfish supper and early bed.
Sunday morning we went for another early start, and were off just after 7 for the 47 miles to Bequia. A lovely easterly force 4-5 had us flying along at up to 7 knots, down the windward side of St Vincent, and across to Admiralty Bay. Met on our approach by a photographer in a dinghy, Bequia's answer to Beken of Cowes.Then on into the bay. Amazed at the number of yachts, must be 100, quite unlike what we have been used to, Took a little time to find a suitable spot to anchor, but were settled by 4pm, then Henry and Charles ashore to complete formalities, while Martin cooked supper.
Monday morning, the photographer showed up while we were still sipping our tea around 7am. Could not resist one of his shots, should appear on the blog idc. Ashore after breakfast to look round. Very different, no longer two visitors and eveyone else local, but now all visitors, and few locals. Not helped by a cruise ship disgorging. For all that, a very attractive spot, and a wonderful setting. Took the dinghy over to Princess Margaret bay after lunch, for a swim. Apparently recently sold to a developer, so a currently beautiful unspoilt crescent beach fringed by thick vegetation will soon be an upmarket resort hotel.We met a Swedish couple from the yacht Panacea, who we had last seen in Porto Santo, just before Madeira. They are going on through the Panama canal and across the Pacific, and were urging us to go too, before it is all too late, there is a strong feeling of the loss of remote places to mass tourism.
Will spend two more days here, exploring the windward coast with its whaling museum and turtle sanctuary.