Haiti, Voodoo, and beauty position now 18.06.26N 73.41.70W
Chaser 2
Yvonne Chapman
Wed 12 Mar 2008 14:58
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We left Las Salinas at sunrise for our 200 miles
sail to Haiti, the land off poverty, violence, political unrest and voodoo. Our
destination in Haiti was a small Island a couple of miles offshore called Ille
La Vache. This we understood to be a calm and safe anchorage. We arrived the
following day (Friday) about 13.00hrs through shallow waters into the most
beautiful anchorage. We were immediately surrounded by young lads in dug out
canoes made from Mango trees (many years ago) welcoming us to their Island. Our
experiences in the more touristy islands put us on our guard because normally
they just want to sell some over ripe bananas or stale bread, but these guys
just came to welcome us and even bring us gifts, albeit a coconut. They did ask
us if we needed anything to give them a call (by name) and they would try and
help.
Our first question was regarding checkin in to
Haiti, and William one of the boat boys told us it's not necessary if we're only
staying a few days, but come Sunday the day before our departure William brought
the customs man to us for which we had to pay overtime for, a scam that we were
not happy about, and we told them so in no uncertain terms. So, anyone cruising
this area should avoid this pleasant young man William. French or Creole French
is the language used here, but we were surprised by the number of lads that
spoke English or Spanish. Samuel, Jon Jon, Carmar and KiKi all nice genuine guys
were ready to help and fetch for a small cost of course but nothing outrageous,
they didn't even ask for money, anything was greatfully received.
This though was our only bad experience, Ille La
Vache is absolutely beautiful, but a step back in time. I'm sure apart from the
population, nothing has changed in the last 200 years. This Island is home
to approx. 20,000 people, there is no electric, water, drainage, or shops,
there are no cars, no roads, there are apparently two motorbikes, so everyone
walks everywhere to fetch everything.. The people are the most friendly we've
come across, they love to see us and we can't walk anywhere without someone
tagging along explaining what we are seeing and where to go.
First though lets explain the parts of this
Caribbean gem, Port Morgan, is the name given to the anchorage you can see in
the picture, behind is a Hotel called 'Port Morgan', and the
hotel and the surrounding gardens is owned
by a Frenchman who started building this project 20 years ago, to make it what
it is today. He also takes care of visiting yachts and he can be called on VHF
channel 06 for entry instructions and checkin (without overtime fees) we later
found out. Our first duty after our dinghy ashore of course was to take some
refreshment, beers all round and we had a chat with the owner who explained to
us how he started and what facilities there were in and around. The hotel of
course has a large generator, but fuel has to be brought from the mainland, (as
does everything else apart from some fruit, meat and fish). He has in the hotel
complex everything a modern hotel has in its own small way, A/C rooms, electric,
ensuite facilities, a small swimming pool, even a mobile telephone and internet
via satellite. This though is the only resembellance of modern civilisation we
found found apart from an orphanage further round the coast.
The anchorage is idylic, calm, protected with
lovely views, unfortunately we arrived shortly after one of the local women had
died. The coffin was being paraded around the anchorage in a motor boat from the
mainland full of well wishers, but they were all whaling and screaming, throwing
dust to the waters and we later learned, throwing themselves in to a trance like
state, to such an extent that it took three people to hold them down, how spooky
is that, glad it was happening at night!
The next day we took a walk over the Madamme
Bernard (The main town) it was to be a 2 hour walk, so we put our hiking flip
flops on and marched onward. Directions weren't a problem, there were many
tracks, but every hundred yards or so a child tagged along with us telling what
path to take. We passed through many villages, houses with straw roofs, one
room, no furniture to speak of, the people all working either washing, mending
fishing nets all came to say Bon Jour, I've never spoken so much French in my
life (though Bon Jour is about all I know apart from a few expressions I've
learnt from Del Boy). Some of these villages have a school house and a well from
where the villagers carry their water. Thats womens work of course, even the
young girls, maybe ten years old carry water in 5 gallon jugs on their heads up
and down the hills a mile or more distant.
With tired legs and feet we arrived at the main
town, wow! there aren't many townships like this in the Caribbean, there were
lots of houses, maybe 12 feet square where the families lived, there were no
shops to speak of, some people had beans or rice for sale on a chair or stool
outside and apparently they have a market each week selling fruit meat and fish.
There were of course a few churches on route spreading their brainwashing words,
so many of the local people 'believe'. but really a step back in time, it was
though we jumped out of Doctor Who's Tardis.
We walked on through the town (village) to St
Francis orphanage, we don't have many photos of the orphanage or the town, you
feel a little uncomfortable flashing expensive cameras around. In the ophanage
they do an amazing job looking after the discarded handicapped children and
orphans. The have few volunteers who work tirelessly through the year,
educating, teaching trades and skills such as sewing, metalwork and carpentry.
The orphanage has its own workshops where they can make furniture to sell on the
mainland to raise a little extra cash to fund the school. The kitchen was over
log fires where all meals were cooked using supplies donated by America and
France.The classrooms too for all grades were very well laid out, although
teachers were hard to find but somehow they manage. The staff here do an
amazing job, something I personally couldn't do.
We said our goodbyes and good luck to the
staff, Chris and Tony gave a few little toys and playthings, marbles
and jigsaws, and we left some pencils and balls behind for the kids.
Their faces lighting up with just a gift of a marble each, a humbling
experience for sure.
Our walk back took us along the same route still
with 'our' kids attached. By this time our feet and legs were beginning to ache,
how the kids make it I don't know, especially with 10lb of water on their
heads. Our walking excercise of course amounts to 40 feet up and down the
boat on a good day, so you can imagine, we were beginning to tire. Mick and
Sharon did well, obviously used to walking in the Cornish hills, but generally
speaking, I would say that Chaser faired better than Waylander,
-- of course.
Arriving back at civilisation (the hotel) our steps
gained a little speed with the waft of food and some coldies. Hand in hand
with the aquired children we all went in for a welcome drink. We then said Au
avoir to the kids, severel times, who were a little reluctant to leave us. I
think one or two really thought they may have the opportunity to come away with
us back to England.
Back on board we had an early night preparing the
boats for an early departure to Jamaica, another dangerous place, so we're
told.
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