Mayreau Union and Carriacou 12.27.40N 61.29.23W
Chaser 2
Yvonne Chapman
Fri 23 Mar 2007 22:01
Clifton Town in Union Island was a nice quaint town, quite
pretty a beautiful bay to anchor, albeit with reefs all around making it a
little disconcerting in case the anchor dragged. The windward Islands
we've seen to date I suppose could be said to be touristy, the
charter sailboats come as do cruise ships.
The Island of Mayreau really has developed little, what
changes they have made is purely to empty the visitors wallets, they sell
the same old T shirts that can be bought anywhere but at a higher price, the
people I believe are becoming accustomed to not working for their money. If
they to buy something they wait for a tourist and sell them something
at whatever price they can get away with. Beer in Mayreau was the most
expensive by far at Robert (Righteous) Lewis bar at 7.70EC$, beer is 4-5EC$
most places. Maybe I'm being unfair, but on a food menu lobster was relatively
inexpensive, chicken was expensive. People go there for the lobster, but then
told, run out of de lobster, only got chicken.
Union Island was more attractive and the people are making
the town of Clifton pleasant and attractive, like many places good
prices and not so good, but generally ok, but still some are trying to
cream the tourists, and it tends to be the Rasta's. Janti, has made a bar from
old sea shells, like a mountain of them, on top of a reef creating his own
Island, it took him 4 years. A pleasant person to talk to, he runs his bar and
lives there too. He has a generator for electric and gas coking. He is quite
sherwd, and has spent some time in the UK, he too is a Rasta. He wasn't
interested in cooking any food, there was only the two of us, but he could
supply us with a beer. We chatted and had a couple more coldies and asked
for the bill, a record breaking 10EC$ per 25cl bottle. No wonder we were
the only mugs there.
We departed Union Island 0n 20th March and made our way to
Carriacou. As you can see from Google earth this Island is slightly North of
Grenada and part of Grenada territory.
Carriacou is a delightful Island, we stopped for three nights
anchored just outside the main town of Hillsborough. It's a large bay, but quite
empty of visiting sailboats, I don't know why. Hillsborough is enchanting, no
hassle from anyone, nice clean shops, bars and restaurants. The people are
friendly and welcoming. We sampled some of the local beer for research purposes
of course, prices were 4 and 5EC$. The people don't want to rip you off, but
they are glad of your custom, the way it should be.I mention beer because often
thats a kinda barometer of the cost of living.
We decided to take our life in our hands and catch a local
bus, these are 12 seater minibuses with 15 seats in. I'm not sure if it's
safer to be in one or follow one. The people are owner drivers and on peacework.
The bus fare collected by a conductor is between 1 and 3 euros each depending
how far you travel. One just needs to stick your hand out and the bus slams on
the brakes, passengers don't seem to bat an eyelid. If the driver passes by
where someone is lurking they stamp on the brakes again, even if they think
someone is lurking there they stop, and if they think they past them they
go hurtling back in reverse to pick them up. So if you are walking or driving on
the roads you need to be aware of hurtling reversing bus drivers, or simply
hurtling buses overtaking other buses that are hurtling. Anyway, we made it to
Windward, a small place we were advised to visit, they build boats on the beach,
all from timber much as they did years ago. We were also told you could watch
the fishing fleet come in under sail, but sadly that no longer happens. The last
remaining sailing fishing boat for laid up having an engine installed.
Nevertheless this was an interesting visit. We stopped and talked to several old
fisherman, they showed us how the boats were made and where they sailed and what
they caught. Well worth the visit. Many of these boats are still used though,
while anchored in Hillsborough many of the trading from one Island to another
was with these old sailing boats, but mostly now using a motor, but it still
makes a beautiful site. It's a shame, but tradition has to disappear.
So, we jumped on a death trap and had an exhilarating 3EC$
ride back to town. Much like the wooden rollercoaster in Terramitica theme
park.
This morning we lifted our anchor and sailed around to
Tyrrel Bay, on the same Island. We have been ashore and although more level at
the sailing community, prices and people are right. Tyrrel Bay is beautiful, a
little more crowded with sailboats, this seems to be the place on Carriacou that
people visit. The bay and anchorage is certainly beautiful as are the small rum
shops and restaurants, but I still like Hillsborough - but the whole Island has
its virtues and beauty.The people are independent, they farm, fish or work hard
to retain their independence from Grenada.
Carriacou really is a nice place!