Phuket Premier Boat Yard
Vega
Hugh and Annie
Mon 30 Mar 2020 18:40
Our time in Malaysia and Thailand had been planned to be relatively short, in fact no more than a “holiday” during a year off from sailing. Combined with some travel in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos we aimed to be back in the UK by mid to late May. Even two weeks ago as the Coronovirus pandemic was gathering pace we were provisioning for another month on board on the basis that we would be safely isolated and could enjoy the coast and islands. We knew that travel in Vietnam wasn’t going to be possible but when Malaysia closed its border to yachts we started to feel isolated. Yachts were not allowed into Indonesia and we read reports that those already there were becoming unwelcome, at least in Sumatra, even if not required officially to leave. Anna and Brent on Impy and Matt and Amy on Florence were asked to leave Sabang Province and are now taking refuge in remote anchorages on the west coast of Sumatra. There they have found the locals, from a safe distance of 50m, to be concerned for their wellbeing and offering to supply food. We know from when we met up in Malaysia that Impy is provisioned for six months and so they appear to be comfortably set to either stay in Indonesia or tackle a non stop passage to Cape Town (they are South African). Florence plans to head back to Malaysia when the border reopens. Without the option of sailing to Malaysia, Singapore, Sri Lanka or any of the islands in the Indian Ocean, some boats look to be stuck in an uncomfortable position in Indonesia unless they can get down to Java or sail with the Rally going down the west side of Sumatra and across to Borneo. Yachts sailing across the Indian Ocean from Thailand can take either of the two northern routes or a southern route. Both the northern routes go via Sri Lanka and/or the Maldives and then either continue across to the Red Sea or go down to Chagos, Seychelles, Madagascar and Cape Town, both starting in January or February. The southern route starts south of the equator from Java from May onwards and crosses via Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling, Rodrigues, Reunion and Mauritius. All Indian Ocean stopover countries are now closed to new foreign arrivals and so yachts already en route or waiting for the southern route must either stay where they are, hope for some flexibility from intended stopover administrations or contemplate a non stop crossing to cape Town or the Red Sea and hope that yachts are allowed to enter South Africa or Egypt when they arrive.
In Thailand matters appeared to be more or less normal, with only the relatively low number of tourists a clue that something was up. Nevertheless we knew that things could become more difficult and so we decided that we would prefer to fly home early than risk a prolonged period in isolation on board. We booked a flight back to the UK on 11th April and signed up to the UK Government’s travel advice service for email updates. It soon became clear that things were moving rapidly and we re-scheduled our return flight to 25th March. We also discovered that leaving a boat in Thailand is not as difficult as it used to be. With the 60 day visas we had obtained in Penang there is no longer any prohibition on the skipper leaving the country as there is for holders of the shorter 30 day tourist visa granted upon arrival nor any need to lodge a bond payment for crew members. The boat can be left for up to six months, extendable in six monthly increments for up to two years in total and this can be taken care of by, in our case, Ditapong who manages the Phuket Premier Boat Yard.
We were sailing with three Australian catamarans, Greg and Karen on Entice, Rusty and Tibby on Satori Two and Gary and Kerry on Kitty Hawk none of whom had planned to go back to Australia immediately and all of whom were relaxed about spending a prolonged period on board, even if only in Thailand. We knew each other well, all of us having been on the rally through Indonesia, and were enjoying sailing together. However, once Annie and I made arrangements to return and it became apparent that options for returning to Australia were closing rapidly, the Australian contingent quickly made arrangements to haul their boats out of the water and fly home.
Before we left we visited Ingvar and Tujia who have been renting an apartment at the Boat Lagoon Marina where Hakuna Matata has been refitted with a new teak deck (it looks wonderful!). They had planned to return to Sweden via Malaysia in April once the re-decking had been completed but have now managed to book the last two remaining seats on a flight back to Stockholm from Phuket and will leave Hakuna Matata at the Boat Lagoon. We also met Colin and Izzy on Endorphin Beta at anchor outside the Boat Lagoon and they plan to see through their intention to stay on board this year.
Other circumnavigating friends now stuck in Malaysia include David and Susan on Enchantress, Reto and Angela on She San, John on Hecla, Stuart and Anne on Time Bandit (and assuming Anne made it back to Malaysia from a visit to Canada!) and Maurice and Maria on Cattiva whose flight back to Canada was cancelled as they were sailing down from Thailand. Several other boats we know are also still in Thailand and Malaysia, crossing the Indian Ocean or are in Indonesia and we hope to keep in touch with them all as the year progresses.
Vega is now basking in the Thai sun with newly installed portable dehumidifier to keep things mould free inside. Our time in Malaysia and Thailand was less relaxing than hoped for but we have seen enough of Thailand to know that there is still some wonderful cruising to look forward to. Anchoring in the shallow water and on sandy bottoms with the new Rocna is a joy and the prospect of sailing around the spectacularly steep islands (a la James Bond) is one that we relish - corona virus permitting.