The cruising chute lasted until nightfall and then we continued to sail throughout the night at up to 3kts close-hauled with mainsail & genoa. When the wind dies altogether we still head towards the Galapagos at almost 2kts so there seems to be quite a current in our favour. This morning there was a big thunderstorm to the north with spectacular lightning. It seemed to be getting closer so when the wind died we motored for a bit to get past it.

Our good friend Charles died recently and his cremation was taking place today. Annie and I sat on the front of the boat remembering his life whilst the thunder grumbled in the background. As we looked ahead we saw a huge fin circling in the water around what we thought might be the carcass of a dead dolphin. Then there appeared to be what looked like a long rectangular dorsal fin behind the pointy bit - so maybe a Sailfin if not a shark. As the “carcass” passed, olive green in colour of course, it raised a large head out of the water and turned out to be a Leatherback Turtle five or six feet long that then dived. No more sign of the pointy fin. Everything with fins that we see out here seems to be rather large…………….

All sorts of things go floating past. A large barnacle encrusted rectangular shaped object with two gulls perching on it, that flew off as we approached, and then something big and round bobbing up and down. Last night we sailed through roosting seabirds that squawked loudly as we disturbed them. Also last night was loud splashing and flashing of phosphorescent light around the hull… dolphins?

Today there is a yacht 2 or 3 miles to the north sailing on a parallel course so it is good to know we are not altogether alone. After motoring a bit this afternoon the wind has returned again, this time from the north. At times it has been blowing from all points of the compass and there is a confused wave pattern that coincides with a change of wind direction. Sometimes you can see and then hear the approach of a line of waves that heralds a bit of wind before it dies again or changes direction.

So, on we progress to the south west at what seems a very gentle 5kts. As we sail we are thinking of Charles and dedicate this part of our journey to his memory.