Debut and Walir Island
Vega
Hugh and Annie
Sat 10 Aug 2019 04:01
It seems that the rally route has been chosen to by the Indonesian tourist authority to visit remote islands and communities that would otherwise have little contact with visitors and certainly not yachties. Although an apparent effort to promote Indonesia as a tourist destination it is difficult to see how this will be achieved with so little by way of tourist infrastructure for access, transportation and accommodation. A mixed blessing for the rally as it is wonderful to be received as visiting celebrities but it looks like some of the anchorages could be challenging as they are not on any cruising route and without much by way of detailed information from the rally organisers we have to be prepared for uncertain conditions. Charts are not accurate, particularly for depth, and shallower areas for anchoring are limited with much of the coastline having deep water right up to shoreline.
Debut provided our big welcome into Indonesia and we were feted with ceremonies, speeches, dancing, meals and banquets. The Regent for the area turned up at many of the events and gave a mercifully short speech on each occasion. When we first arrived we were excited to see several Buddhist temples along the shoreline and looked forward to exploring. Sadly we were informed upon arrival that they are mosques, confirmed by the loudly broadcast calls to prayer from 0500 each morning. Indonesia has the largest Muslim population in the world, the religion is promoted by the government and yet it was Christian tradition that featured in our gala lunch ceremonies that preceded the farewell banquet. The martyrdom of 12 priests at the hands of Japanese invaders during the Second World War was graphically and violently re-enacted for us and seems to be a major historical event for the island.
The rally organisers had ensured that months of preparations would keep us occupied throughout each of the five days of our visit. Unfortunately they have underestimated the age and overestimated the stamina of most of the rally participants. We have to fit in running maintenance, repairs, provisioning and so on as well as attend all the organised events. Sometimes communication is not the best and there has been uncertainty around events and timings on occasion. We had one impassioned speech from someone connected with an “orphanage” who had arranged coaches for a visit and lunch and would be seeking a donation of the equivalent of £50 per person. It transpired that he was nothing to do with the official organisation and his proposed visit would clash with our gala lunch. The yachties feel that we are being given an extremely generous amount of hospitality and that we would be happy to contribute to a worthy cause in return. It turns out that this can be fraught with complications and difficulty. A school or “orphanage” or whatever is likely to have some religious or other affiliation and a donation to one will cause offence to or ill will from others. Furthermore the “orphanages” may house children from poor families that have been sent there so that the orphanage can take on the cost of their upbringing. Donations to these orphanages from well meaning outsiders may encourage this practice of abandonment.
At Walir we were anchored in 20m depth, despite expecting 7 - 10m from the charted depth. This is the most depth we can safely anchor in without attaching an extension line to our chain. We have never had to do this and the prospect is not inviting. At Banda the charted depth is 30m plus in the more sheltered and favoured anchorage........
Where it all begins
The first welcome speech that involved spraying coconut water over everyone
Very slow and very elegant with trembling hands
We were welcomed ashore in ordered groups - one from each nationality. The Americans thought they should be first but as the USA were last! The Scottish contingent grimaced as they were introduced as part of the group from England.
The streets were lined for us!
Perhaps a tad OTT?!
Planting a mangrove tree as part of a mangrove rehabilitation project
Debut Village
The Regent