Yesterday morning at 0900 we had a call from the Port Captain’s office to say that our zarpe would be delivered to us at 1200. 10 minutes later it had been delivered! We then had to await an inspection of our boat at 1330 before we could leave but that did give us time to go into town and talk to grandchildren before we left. Quite what the inspection was for we have no idea as it involved no more than someone from the port captain’s office checking our zarpe and passport stamps. On another boat they were asked to show their lifejackets, first aid kit and paper chart!

At 1500 we weighed anchor and set off with Nautilus. The forecast south easterly wind had yet to fill and the wind was from the west of south as we left. This meant a motorsail to keep us off the coast without tacking to the south east. Once we were clear of the headland we sailed in a more westerly direction at over 6kts in only 10kts of wind - there is quite a strong westerly current running. After sunset the wind became variable in direction and even lighter so we motored until 2300 when a steady breeze of up to 10kts from the ESE set in and we are now sailing at 6kts to the south west with Nautilus about 2 miles off our starboard quarter. Over the next few days we need to get down to about 5 degrees south to be sure of steady trade winds to the Marquesas. The forecast suggests the wind will stay sufficiently far north to achieve this in a south westerly direction without having to sail (or motor) due south.

There is a group of seven yachts all sailing to the Marquesas. One of these is Jadean, a 45’ catamaran with South African couple Barry and Kim and their two young children on board. Another is Nautilus - the Ovni 395 with Ian and Stephanie - and there seem to be three of the Oysters on their round the world rally. All the other boats are longer than Vega so as this little convoy spreads out Vega is likely to be following up behind although we were holding our own yesterday afternoon………..

As we sailed along the coast of Isobela we could see the tips of Manta Ray fins poking out of the water and lots of smaller rays jumping. We saw the Mantas a couple of days ago on a snorkelling boat trip and got up close to one or two in the boat - enormous creatures doing somersaults just under the surface.

The day before yesterday I missed out on what would have been a certain Wildlife Photographer of the Year prizewinner. A marine iguana had a lava lizard perched on the top of its head and the lizard’s brightly orange coloured mate was on a rock next to them. I only had time to snap away with the wide angle lens and the subjects were too far away to enlarge sufficiently, plus the shot of the lizard right on top of the iguana’s head failed to record. So frustrating! 

Two days before we left Isobela we read of the “snap” general election for June. Called of course by the leader of the party that introduced fixed five year terms and who now, despite pronouncements to the contrary, sees party political advantage ahead of national interest. If England doesn’t take this opportunity to stand up to the stranglehold being exerted by the right then it will get what it deserves - and I fear the Brexiteers will ensure just that, preferring an “independent” country pursuing a hard brexit than one with any sense of social value and public service. I will have to see if we can arrange a proxy vote from the middle of the Pacific and stem my frustration that I cannot be there and help the opposition cause (hampered irredeemably as it may be by Jeremy Corbin and the right wing press).