Re: Tahiti Iti

Farr Gone Blog
Stuart Cannon
Fri 3 Jun 2011 03:44
I've arrived back at the mooring in Arue after a three day circumnavigation of Tahiti. One the first day our departure was later than I wanted and of course the wind refused to cooperate so we didn't make as much distance as was hoped. Decided to call into Port Phaeton for the night. A beautiful sheltered anchorage in the isthmus between the two parts of the island. The town itself is small and spread out but still a pleasant spot. Once again the Ipad was great making a low light entry up a coral strewn channel easy. After a quiet night we set off for Huputu on the south coast. A challenging bar to cross and an anchorage that kept me awake worrying about swinging into a reef. After a brief visit with the locals I was probably a bit rude as I couldn't stay and feel good about the boat with the possibility of it getting smashed up so it was off to the other side of the isthmus, I do love that word. Went into a harbour that was a failed marina and commercial building development. I was very sceptical about this wharf as I couldn't believe there would be an excellent wharf and nobody there, but it all was true. Unfortunately the clouds decided to unload very heavily as we made the pass through the reef and on to the harbour. By the time we were all tied up and settled we were soaked through and getting to the dock with such low visibility was a bit freaky. A pleasant evening was spent chatting to the wandering locals who came to see this boat that appeared on the wharf. Tahitians pride themselves on their knowledge of the sea and they all very impressed that I can contemplate such long voyages and continually remind me of this which makes my leonine ego swell. I'm sure that will be corrected on the next voyage as nature always has a way of reducing an ego to tatters.
The plan now is to regroup here for a few days then pay my respects to the Harbour Master and Customs and depart for Bora Bora via several other islands where I will leave French Polynesia for Samoa. I'm looking forward to picking up Jack there for the voyage to Fiji. Samoa may seem an odd choice rather than the more direct run to Tonga but I'm hoping the lower lats will produce plenty of pleasant weather and Jack seems keen to have a look at Samoa, the western one. Apparently the US one is pretty ordinary except for a costco which I can do without.
I have had Raoul with me for this trip around Tahiti and he will probably come with me as far as Bora Bora and then catch the ferry back here. It has been interesting trying to explain what I want and some very awkward moments have happened where I want one thing and get another but we made it around without major problems and that is a good thing. I am shameless in that I have seriously enjoyed having a man friday to make life easy and to be a guide to the nooks and cranny's of polynesia. The people here are very interesting. They are childlike in some ways, in their enthusiasm and willingness to do anything but also have a strong sense of self and their place as part of Tahiti. I find I have to be quite black and white about things and I feel like a parent at times saying no more than I ever did with my kids. All part of the experience.
The island itself looks more magnificent from the sea and the massive cliffs and waterfalls just kept your attention. Growth cascading over itself down massive cliffs to the sea made a very "island of Dr. Moreau" look. Found some pretty cool spots for a shack too especially down the south where there is no road access. Make it tricky to get to the shop when theres a bit of a blow happening but idyllic. 

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