17:31.23S 149:32.13W
Farr Gone Blog
Stuart Cannon
Sun 8 May 2011 19:58
Ah Tahiti, it apparently grows on you. As the rain has eased the place has become more attractive. I can see it now!
In Tahiti, nobody jogs, everyone seems to have an outrigger canoe and they paddle. Up and down they go in this long procession for miles just inside the reef. Some are young, some old, both sexes and boats with just one or teams of five. They all pump along though and they all nod their heads or smile as they go past. People here are very kind and helpful. Last night the crew departed and we were loading cases from the dinghy up the wharf to a waiting cab. They did have alot of luggage, way too much, but within moments a couple of young men appeared and grabbed our bags and helped us to the gate. All the time laughing and joking and this seems to happen quite a bit here. People go out of their way to help. The French seem at first grumpy but before you know it they are helping you too much and the Polynesians love a laugh.
I am now officially badly bilingual. I was official translator for the crew here as they knew no french and I knew only un petit more. Getting past the Port Captain was ok but I had a hard time at customs as the officer was bit more surly and wasn't convinced I had soloed to the Marquesas. Had to prove it with the Mexican papers I had. When I had accomplished that I heard him muttering fou, fou, fou (french for mad) so I was happy.
Daz and Berkely left last night for the US of A. They were both unique characters who made getting to the Tuamotos easy and I am so glad I went to Rangiroa. That was unique. On the other hand it is really good to have my house back to myself and I plan to spend the day getting things back to the way I like them and getting back into my own routine.
Tomorrow is a dinghy ride around the coast and into Papeete to arrange sail repairs and some other minor items. The sailmaker has a dock so before I solo the yacht over I thought a quick look at where the boat needs to go would be wise. To get there in Farr Gone means a trip outside the reef due to the deep draft keel so a little planning is required.
For those who think cruising on a yacht is mainly sitting around with little to do should think again. There is no shortage of pressing issues that need attention and every job is many times more difficult than on land. Then there are all the life support systems like water, fuel, sewerage, electricity etc that on land can be taken for granted but on a boat must be constantly monitored and replenished. Well ok not the sewerage, that has to still be taken care of, and around here that means a trip out to sea as there doesnt seem to be any pump out stations. One of the difficulties I face is getting the gas bottles refilled. They are almost empty and a little adventure is sure to surround that mission, Thank heavens for good internet here, although last night it was poor. I am able to look up the french for could you fill my gas bottle please? which apparently can cause amusement to the locals when you get it wrong. Something to do with methane gas and personal odour? Conclusion: anal humour works everywhere.
A little about the two crew that have just departed. They both contributed to the adventure enormously each in their own way. Daz was always kind and thoughtful and dominated in the galley, an area that was beautifully maintained. His raw tuna will be long remembered as will the porridge for the early morning crew. Credit to Ella and Kelly for insisting I buy the packet porridge at Costco. As well as being on top in the galley he always did more than his share on deck. His professional operation of boats made a good example for anyone. I felt some empathy with Daz as he had had several chapters in life as have I. He plays jazz percussion specifically marimba (with electronic effects) but is heavily into the sea having been a ferry boat captain, charter boat captain, etc. Even so he was kind enough to thank me for what I taught him when in fact I probably should have thanked him. He had also swum as a young man in the US olympic team so his ability to dive under Farr Gone and clean the bottom was just amazing even without consideration for his age. His age of 67 was never a consideration.
Berkely is a committed dinghy instructor from Newport who also steers a Petersen 41 in races there. My best effort at a nickname for him was cyclone but it would have been too harsh to have used. Berkeley was very thorough and careful and had everything. Literally. Even women I know who travel heavy could take lessons from Berkeley in being prepared. Now while I am poking fun at this it must be pointed out that there were many times when those things were profoundly important. Restoring hard drives was easy with the equipment he carried. The only way we got water at Ua Pou was by using Berkeleys collapsible 5 gallon water bags which he kindly left behind and to top it off he also left behind a radio control helicopter just in case! and that doesnt include the books and gifts for locals. His dinghy sailing experience was obvious as he knew how to trim a sail. He was also the go get it man. He had the uncanny ability to walk up to anyone and ask for something. It would take time as he would get into quite a chat but he always came back poker faced but smiling on the inside.
It is hoped that I can get back into taking photos. With the sailing taking precedence over everything, it is very hard to abandon the wheel to grab a camera so sights tend to be savoured and not photographed. We did have a waterproof camera but it fried when it went in water so I guess I should try again and get one I can keep by me. Its too scary to bring the good camera up on deck when the spray is flying, and hard to get a spare hand.
So I'd better go and finally decide on where the noodles should be packed.