A familiar face
17:07.58N 61:53.30W Monday 7th March Slow start again saw us just about to leave the quayside at
English Harbour when up walked Frances and Chris Martin, friends of ours from
our home in England! They had decided on a break from the grind in the UK and having
tossed up whether to go skiing or seek some sun, had booked at very short
notice a few days in Antigua. This was their third day and they were on an
island tour and taking in Nelson’s Dockyard when they spotted Serafina
tried to the quay. Extraordinary luck really as this was almost the only time
we have been on such a public position. Normally being anchored off would have
made it impossible for them to have seen us. They came on board for a coffee and we planned how we might
pick them up from their hotel and take them sailing tomorrow. (As luck has it
our planned anchorage for Monday night is only a few miles from their hotel.) After they headed back off on their tour, we called the
dockmaster to come and release our lines so we could leave. Sadly the very
amiable and helpful O’Neil from yesterday was not around and so we had
the services of two rather less competent and rather brusque chaps who made
quite a meal and a hash of things. They finally turned up and eventually
released our rope from the big mooring buoy, but then seemed incapable of
organising the people on the Russian boat next to us to release their line
which was obstructing us still. None of this is at all unusual at this harbour
and is solely the result of how they do things here. At some stage our American
neighbour on the other side of us popped up to inform us cheerily that he had
been there several weeks and 3 out of every 4 boats that made to leave found
that their anchors were fouled on chains or other underwater obstructions which
probably was a nice earner for the dockyard diver! The line was finally undone but very little effort was made
to retrieve it as we left the quay and used the anchor to pull ourselves out
from the moored boats. With a cross wind blowing, Sarah needed to use the
engine but knowing that the loose line was under our hull, did not dare to
engage the prop but concentrated on ‘advising’ the Russian crew in
as few words and syllables as possible about what they needed to do – and
how soon! All was well and we recovered the anchor without any problem (we had
deliberately laid it a long way out in the hope this would be safer) and gently
motored out of the harbour, passing Nimue who were anchored in the bay. Gorgeous day but barely any wind which was very
uncharacteristic and so we motored, picking our way through the inner reefs
along the coast to save time and then as we turned northwards we picked up some
good wind. We then enjoyed a cracking sail up the west coast of the island and
made our way into Deep Bay which is just short of St John’s which is the
capital. Deep Bay is well protected, but has the distinctive feature of a wreck
from around 1900 in the middle whose tallest mast still sticks out of the blue
water. The Andes sank when, having been refused entry by the capital’s
harbour as she was smoking through a hollow mast, she anchored around the
corner to check on her cargo of pitch. Unfortunately the act of
opening the hold allowed the fire to really catch and she sank once her wooden
decks had burnt off the metal structure. The Andes apparently still
occasionally burps pitch. Mick and Dione swam ashore to find out if this was a
suitable spot for Frances and Chris to come and join us the next day, whilst
Sarah swam over the wreck and then to another beach to look for stones.
(Don’t ask) I managed to cock things up and sent the end of the
spinnaker halyard up to the lower crosstrees which meant that Sarah had to don
the climbing harness and I winched her part of the way up the mast to retrieve
the halyard for me. Nice quiet evening spent at anchor although the bay did
gradually become a bit rolly with a rising wind which at least ensured no mozzies
and kept things cool. |