Back down the Dardanelles.

Serafina
Rob & Sarah Bell
Mon 20 Jul 2009 06:20
40:09.1N 26:24.2E

Saturday 18th July
Up at 5.30am to make an early start on the 70 miles to Canakkale and were
waved off by the elderly gatekeeper who had greeted us two days ago (and
taken our token mooring fee), who was busy picking up rubbish from the night
before.

Long hot windless day followed. We did have 10 knots of breeze briefly, but
that was dead on the nose, so only good for cooling. Not a lot of current
under us but we made good time towards the Dardanelles. We came across the
Turkish Naval Force Yacht Race Cup fleet (36 yachts - huge number for the
Sea of Marmara) who were stuck in a flat calm heading the same way as us.
They had a VERY long day ahead of them!

Got a little concerned as we approached the Dardanelles themselves as
suddenly all the ships heading the same way as us, pulled over and dropped
anchor. This is all the more remarkable as they were all heavily laden and
so clearly had deadlines to meet. Rather wondered if something very special
(or dangerous) was coming the other way, but we never found out. But no
ships at all came south in all the 6 hours we were heading down the straits
and there was nothing remarkable about any of the ones coming north.

Current did finally pick up a bit and gave us an extra knot and it was
4.00pm when we swept into Canakkale and reversed up to the quay, next to a
wonderful Dutch crew who were at pains from the outset to explain that
although their flag was German, they were all Dutch! Very hot and still
evening slipped past as we enjoyed drinks and nibbles on board their boat
and discussed all manner of things. John & Mart had done a boat exchange for
a couple of weeks and so they were heading with friends up to Istanbul where
they were leaving the boat and then having 9 days in a hotel to spend time
exploring Istanbul properly.

Sunday 19th July
We have chosen to stay here for a second day so we can get things done like
the laundry (the washing machine on board was certainly one of the more
inspired decisions) and cleaning the boat etc. Also there is a good internet
link in the marina office.

John, Mart and friends were heading north, but just before they set off one
of the crew had a very bad fall whilst getting from the quay onto the boat.
Everyone rushed to help and one of the marina staff offered to run her to a
hospital, but in the end she declined and put on a very brave face, but was
clearly in a high level of shock. 15 minutes later, the same member of staff
reappeared with a large bunch of flowers for her, which was a very sweet
touch.

Nice breeze got up during the day, which was much needed, but then a large
motor boat (British Flag) 'Souris Rose' moored alongside us and directly
upwind, which blocked all the breeze and left us hot and bothered again.
However, every cloud has a silver lining and later on in the late afternoon,
Sarah got into conversation with the owners, David and Jill, and they kindly
invited us on board for a drink or two and we had a fascinating (air
conditioned) evening followed by a guided tour which left us ever so
slightly envious of a number of its features. We may both be heading for
Bozcada tomorrow, so we can reciprocate...well with the drinks, just hope
the promised stronger winds kick in to help cool us down.

What we did learn from David and Jill was that we had badly missed out by
not going to visit the bay opposite a small commercial harbour on the north
eastern end of Marmara Island. We had read in the pilot that this was very
dusty from the marble being loaded onto ships there and whilst there were a
few half finished ancient statues lying around, it was pretty much a place
to miss. Their photos showed that this is no longer the case and that whilst
you can only moor in the bay opposite the harbour, a walk round the place is
rewarded by something of a living museum in marble. Upwards of 40
sculptures, ancient and modern line the streets and the beach on the bay
appears to be made from ground up marble in place of sand! Sadly it is 60
miles in the wrong direction now, so we will have had to settle for their
photos instead. But any yachts reading this and heading up towards Istanbul
might want to take note.