Isles of Shoals

Serafina
Rob & Sarah Bell
Sun 29 Jul 2012 21:33

42:58.81N 70:36.76W

 

Sunday 29th July

 

Another grey morning with reduced visibility and rain, but luckily the fog didn't develop, however the wind stayed firmly fixed to the nose so we motor sailed around Cape Ann (where strangely there are 2 lighthouses, one private and one presumably state run!), then north and finally into sea depths of 80m+ where the damn pots disappear.  Our depth gauge was having an off day flashing from 90m down to, at one point, 7m despite all the charts begging to differ.  I was hopeful of it being caused by whales, Rob put it down to extreme temperature fluctuations or shoals of fish.

 

We have twice seen some sort of game fish chasing something, diving back and forth out of the water - I reckon a Sailfish or Marlin, it's certainly impressive.

 

We arrived at our destination, Isles of Shoals (named after the huge schools of cod once fished here, making this tiny group of islands one of Britain's richest colonies in 18th century) still in very overcast conditions and still in foulies!   We picked up a yacht club buoy between Smuttynose, Cedar and Star Islands.  This is one of those rare places where everyone says ‘don't attempt to anchor as the holding is so bad’.  Consequently several private bodies, including 2 mainland yacht clubs 'maintain' (we hope) buoys here, on a first come, first served basis - and free!

 

The islands are very reminiscent of Sweden: no trees, granite everywhere, and similar low slatted houses, some even painted red.  There is also one huge building now a religious retreat, but in a previous incarnation a successful hotel advertised in 1872 as a "place for the tired worker. No noise. No dust. No trolleys."  The public are allowed ashore during daylight hours to be greeted by the staff called ‘Pelicans’!   It's original attraction was enhanced by the poet, Celia Thaxter, daughter of the local lighthouse keeper, drawing such literary stars to visit as Longfellow.  There is also Betty Moody's cave where the only survivor of an Indian attack hid, but had to kill her two infants to prevent their crying giving them away.  And there are stories of pirates including Blackbeard and Captain Kidd visiting; indeed bars of silver were found here.

 

We intend to spend a certain 60th birthday here tomorrow (haven't made it to the bright lights, so Rob will have to settle for the promise of a stonking great steak in due course).  And should the rain let up, will walk over the 3 nearest islands - they really are that tiny - 3000 nesting gulls allowing.  They apparently have dive-bombing techniques and you are advised to walk holding a stick above your head (and on a treeless island......).