A Perfect Day

Serafina
Rob & Sarah Bell
Sat 23 May 2009 14:31

39:22.0N 26:10.1E

Friday 22nd May

Checked out our Transit Log with the Port Police (they are a bit keen round here) and we got away around 10.15am heading north to a little bay where we planned to stay the night. Along the way we were joined by 2 dolphins who swam with us briefly before rejoining three others a little way off.

We arrived in the bay only to find that it was less a bay than just a beach with little or no protection if the weather kicked up at all, so we decided to press on to Mithymna which turned out to be the best decision  we have made for quite a while!

From a good way off you can see the 14th century Byzantine castle at the top of the hill overlooking the town of Molivos (the locals prefer this newer name to the ancient and correct 'Mithymna') and the approach needs care to avoid a lot of outlying rocks, but as we came into the outer harbour we were stunned by the beauty of the place and to make things better we were welcomed by the crews of the 5 yachts that were still here having been sheltering from the same storm as us all week. Two American boats, one Australian, one from Guernsey and one from the UK. There was one working water point and so Sarah sprang into action washing the decks thoroughly as she had become very depressed at the state of Serafina during the bad weather as the rain had made her filthy and deposited yellow pollen all over her in addition to all the dirt!

We then got to meet the other crews properly and they all had wintered in various parts of Turkey were heading for Istanbul and some for the Black Sea, so they were able to give us any amount of very useful information for our stay in Turkey. However, with regards to this beautiful town they directed us first to go up the hill to see the castle and wander the cobbled street which was just wonderful. The whole town has been carefully preserved, retaining its traditional Ottoman architecture, narrow cobbled lanes, stone houses with hallmark wooden balconies jutting out and brightly painted shutters. It really is quite a magical place, but it is obvious from the number of tavernas especially down by the quay that this is a big tourist trap in the summer and this was confirmed by locals who said that it was packed throughout the season, particularily when the trip boats arrived.

Got back down to the waterfront to find four of the boat crews assembled on the Australian yacht tucked into evening drinks to which we were immediately invited. Lots of useful advice given to us, but as the drink flowed our ability to retain the information deteriotated! Eventually things came to halt as they were all making very early starts in the morning, but it was then discovered that one of the American boats was just touching the bottom and for good measure appeared to have a steel advertising sign that was lying on the sea bed, caught between their rudder and prop! This was removed, with varying degrees of help from us all, but not before causing some chaos in the taverna with the customers sitting at the tables on the waters edge.

We then offered that the boat could be rafted alongside us where the water was deeper, but as we set about doing this, the Port Police arrived and requested that we move Serafina as they had forgotten that a large fishing boat was due in! So we ended up rafted alongside the 50+ foot Swan from Guernsey.

Sarah and I then set off to find the restaurant (Betty’s) that came highly recommended by all the crews (and the Lonely Planet Guide no less). Found the restaurant which is a restored Turkish pasha’s residence in the town’s upper streets and when we introduced ourselves to Betty, she personally ushered us through the busy dining room to the prime table in the place, which is on the glossy red overhanging balcony with a fantastic view over the little harbour. Drink having been taken, I was able to overcome my total fear of anything higher than a chair and we enjoyed a wonderful meal, mostly selected by Betty who is an engaging Greek who has spent most of her life in Australia!

Returned to Serafina to find the crew of the Swan all back from their meal (they had not been around when we had rafted up to them) and we agreed that since they were also leaving early in the morning, we would simply cast off and set out ourselves at whatever time suited them as well.