It was yet another gorgeous day here in the anchorage, we had still had no significant rain and the clouds were promising a squall.

Jamie & Lucy had invited us aboard Bamboozle for dinner, so, as it was our wedding anniversary and we had a fridge, we took over a bottle of bubbly to celebrate.

 Jamie, as it turns out, is something of a whiz in the galley and had whipped up a super sweet and sour chicken.

We had decided we were going to head over to the village the next day, so this was also the last chance to spend any time with Jamie & Lucy. Although we are all heading for Fakarava and some spectacular diving, so we’ll meet up not too far down the road.

The next morning we eventually managed to up the anchor, but not before we had unwound it from around two coral heads and set out for the short hop across the lagoon.

The village, or should I say city (they have a sign saying city) was larger than I had expected and was very quiet indeed. So it came as a surprise to see that the roads had sleeping policemen!!!

We noticed as we walked along the road, that there were lots of big black things hanging from trees all over the village, we could only assume they were for the pearl farms that sat a short way offshore.

Another thing that was apparent was the fact that they must have very strong winds on the island, as almost every house had their roof lashed to the ground.

But it’s not surprising really as there is nothing to stop the trades as they blow through.

The island seems quite well provided for, with a school (though only primary I think as the children go away to boarding school when they are older) a health clinic and an airstrip.

Provisions, I was to find out, don’t arrive by ship, as in the Marquesas, here they are flown in from Tahiti and that includes the baguettes!!!

We found the shop, which was closed and had a chat with the local policeman (no not the sleeping one) and headed up to take a closer look at the church.

It was a very simple church, but the locals had taken great care when making their decorations. Beautiful chandeliers made from sea shells hung from the ceiling, it was lovely.

I had hoped to buy some pearls, or rather trade for some, but as the contact for them was the lady who owned the shop, it was not going to happen today.

We headed in to town the next day and I was on a mission, to get a black pearl. I had my knapsack of things I hoped to trade (including a bottle of Roger’s rum).

The shop was open, so after getting acquainted with Nicole, the owner ( this was not difficult as she is a very outgoing and friendly lady) I asked where we could buy pearls. It turned out her husband sold them. It also turned out that he was the Mayor.

We went over to their house and he brought out a suitcase full of pearls. All different sizes, shapes and colours. There were hundreds.

I had been reading up on what to look for, the shape, size, colour, lustre, orient and quality. Now don’t misunderstand me, when I say I wanted to buy one, I meant just a little one, as top quality can go for thousands of dollars.

Nicoles husband sells his pearls in Japan and China and the one’s they reject, he brings back and sells to yachties, like me.

Apparently, the smaller pearls take 18 months to grow after being grafted. Sometimes they then implant a second nucleus to obtain a second, larger pearl 15 months later.

I selected a few and was pleasantly surprised by the price. I asked if he was interested in looking at what I had to barter with. He took a look and didn’t want anything (not even the rum, apparently he didn’t drink, which was contrary to what I had heard!!!!) what he was looking for though,  was a jacket and a panama hat as it gets chilly at night. So when I got back on board I passed that information on to 'Nakia', who had just arrived in the anchorage.

There was no chance we had a jacket that would fit him, so I paid my money. This bartering is so different to the haggling I do in Thailand. Plus when I think about it, here is a guy who travels to Japan and China regularly, so is not short of a bob or two, why would he want to barter?? Also let’s not forget that every yacht that stops here, buys from him, so he only needs so much stuff!!  Never mind, I had my pearls and much cheaper than I had expected, so I was happy.

When we reached the dinghy the children were playing in the water. They were chasing the wake of the dinghy laughing and shouting, what a wonderful childhood these island children have, simple pleasures, no restrictions and wonderful weather.

Oh yes, the black things. When I asked what they were for, I was told that when there is a full moon, the coral blooms and these things are dropped into the water between 3 and 6 meters deep and weighted down. They then trap all the spawn and it stops it from spreading. Well that’s what I was told.- since turns out that it is the oysters that seed not the coral.